XPost: misc.consumers.frugal-living   
   From: mung_me@att.net   
      
   On 12/4/2012 11:16 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:   
    > "j"  wrote in message   
    > news:k9l3t1$rm5$1@news.albasani.net...   
    >>   An idea to pass along.   
    >>   
    >> I've been making indoor storms. These are made out of 1/2" (1/2" is   
    >> about optimal air space) thick frames ripped from white pine 2 by   
    >> stock. 2x6's seem to be made out of better wood than 2x4's, so I've   
    >> been using that. Half lap joints for the corners. Then, seal the   
    >> wood....   
    >>   
    >> Jeff   
    >   
    > I made a set in 1981 and have mentioned them on alt.energy.homepower a   
    > few times, generating no followup questions to fill in the details I   
    > intentionally omitted. I got the idea and the Mylar from John   
    > Stephenson who makes Warmlite camping gear and has played with Mylar   
    > film insulation since the 1950's.   
      
   Very cool.   
    >   
    > They work fine and most have survived without a tear. The window glass   
    > has kept UV from noticeably yellowing the film.   
      
   That's a long life!   
      
      
     The only maintenance   
    > has been replacing the closed cell weatherstripping that makes them a   
    > snug press fit in the window trim. Instead of cement I used   
    > double-stick tape and my wife and I stretched the plastic over the   
    > frame the same way theatre flats are covered with canvas, ie working   
    > from the centers toward the corners. Then we wrapped the edges with 2"   
    > clear packaging tape.   
      
   I like that.   
      
   The contact cement should give more latitude. I had tried double stick   
   but it is hard to tug on the mylar.The contact slides until it sets. In   
   fact you don't have to be that careful of getting out the ripples   
   initially as they pull out easily after the mylar is on the frame.   
    >   
    > Before covering the frames I stained them to match the windows so they   
    > practically disappear from inside. From outside the reflection of a   
    > few slight ripples shows at certain angles.   
      
   Same here.   
    >   
    > On the exposed upwind side of the house I added retainers made from   
    > brass L hooks straightened, looped at the end and then bent 45 degrees   
    > in the center to make thumb latches, two per window.   
      
   Nice.   
    >   
    > Infrared thermometer measurements of black tape on the plastic and the   
    > wall show only a few degrees difference when the outside temp is well   
    > below freezing.   
      
   Same here, at least for as cold as we get! Seems like it works better   
   than expected.   
      
     They seal the windows enough that winter-time humidity   
    > remains above 40%.   
    >   
    > It takes some cabinet-making skill to make invisible mortice and tenon   
    > corner joints. Ten of the eleven window frames I made would hold   
    > together without glue. The patio door frames were too big to stand   
    > upright on the table saw so I dowelled them, which has held up fine.   
      
   Your skills trump mine. I cut half laps with a dado and a stop. Then   
   pinned it together with a pin stapler while the glue set. Two half days   
   to do up a dozen windows.   
      
   Some of the pieces I've ripped have curved. What should I look for in   
   feed stock? I think the pieces with tighter/closer grain curve more. I   
   think the top grain is more critical than the edge grain. But I really   
   don't know.   
      
   Jeff   
    >   
    > jsw   
    > .   
    >   
    >   
    >   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)