XPost: sci.electronics.design, sci.electronics.equipment, sci.electronics.misc   
   XPost: sci.electronics.repair   
   From: stereobuff07@gmail.com   
      
   "micky"  wrote in message news:3pt1iatpt9n7qn6b28hj3b82mq237s5o3j@4ax.com...   
      
   On Tue, 24 Feb 2015 10:52:37 -0600, "Shaun"    
   wrote:   
      
   >   
   >   
   >"rickman"  wrote in message news:mc0etn$q4g$1@dont-email.me...   
   >   
   >On 2/16/2015 10:16 PM, Sparky wrote:   
   >>> Do you happen to have quadruple 300 W audio channels on board?   
   >>   
   >> No, mostly stock old Toyota. Only additional load is Xenon lamps. These   
   >> pull   
   >> 10A total which isn't much for lights...   
   >>   
   >> Maybe I'll upgrade the alternator to a later-model Toyota 70A or such.   
      
   >Why would you  need a bigger alternator than the one that came with the   
   >car?    Are you using  substantially more current than the car used when   
   >new?  How?   Only the biggest sound system would use much more current,   
   >and if you have some enormous sound system, or a winch that you use  all   
   >the time, stop using those things until you figure out what is wrong   
   >with the car.   
      
   >My brother bought a new car and the dealer replaced the altenator, the   
   >starter motor, and the battery twice, to make the car start right.  But   
   >the dealer guys didn't know what they were doing.   
      
   >I took it to Sears and they found the problem in less than 5 minutes.   
   >It was a dirty connection between the positive battery cable and the   
   >starter solenoid (which also powered t he starter motor.)   It cost   
   >NOTHING in parts to fix, and they charged me nothing to fix it, perhaps   
   >because I was buying a new battery, but it would have been very cheap   
   >anyhow.   If it's not that connection, it might be another one.   You're   
   >battery cables could not have 1.5 ohms resistance, but where they are   
   >connected might.   
      
   > If a battery post gets hot when you're trying to start the car, there   
   >is a bad connection between that post and the cable connecter that's   
   >attached to it.   Hot does not mean it's carrying a lot of electricity.   
   >It means it's having trouble carrying the electricity it needs.   
   >Because of a bad connection that wastes energy making heat.   
      
   >People spend a lot of time t hinking abou the big components and less   
   >time thinking about the wires in between (which I gather you have   
   >checked)  and even less time thinking about the connections of the wres   
   >in between.   Check them all, especially those that carry substantial   
   >current.   
      
   >They fixed it, but every time I left the light on for a few hours, the   
   >problem would start again.  At firstr I took the cable off and cleaned   
   >everything, like the Sears guy did, but then I learned just ot rotate   
   >the cable end on the stud, 10 or 20^ and then rotate it back.   
      
   Yup... I've run into that problem too.  When it get freezing cold outside,   
   metal shrinks.  If the cable clamps are not tight on the battery, you'll run   
   into a bad connection at the battery terminal.  Temporary fix is to turn the   
   clamps by hand, if you can - that is the problem.  Your car will probably   
   start after twisting the terminals back and forth, but once you get home -   
   tighten the bolts with a wrench.   
      
   Shaun   
      
      
      
   Finally I got a buzzer that buzzes when I left the headlights or parking   
   lights on and the problem went a way entirely.   
   >   
   >What is your current unit rated for 60A?   
   >   
   >I replaced the 70A alternator in my truck when a diode opened up.  It   
   >was still working, but not enough juice to charge the battery when the   
   >lights were on and I run the headlights all the time, lol.  Nothing ever   
   >got fried though.   
   >   
   >What is your alternator model number?  What year?  Mine is a 97 T100 and   
   >I found they changed the alternator in mid model year (around April,   
   >IIRC).  Causes a lot of confusion on what is the right model.  I tried   
   >finding a replacement diode bridge.  *That* was the major change and was   
   >incompatible between the two versions.  When looking for parts be sure   
   >to use the VIN to get the right one.   
   >   
   >I ended up getting a used alternator and it is running ok now...   
   >although it is in the shop for a clutch.  They've ordered two so far.   
   >The first pressure plate "collapsed" whatever that means and the springs   
   >on the second weren't right.  They are giving NAPA some hell over this   
   >and are getting an upgraded one to put in my truck.  Hope to have it soon.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)