From: askevej37a@gmail.com   
      
   fredag den 28. april 2023 kl. 15.25.18 UTC+2 skrev Louis Ohland:   
   > The thumbscrews that hold the slot fillers in are captive, they won't   
   > come out unless you really work at unscrewing them.   
   >   
   > BUT... if one just unscrews them enough to pull an adapter, then tries   
   > to SIMMply stick the adapter back in hurriedly, you could stick the "U"   
   > of the slot filler over the ribbed portion of the thumbscrew, which in   
   > this case is anodized aluminum. Relatively softer than the spring steel   
   > used by slot coves.   
   >   
   > So, if the "U" is bearing on the ribbed part of the thumbscrew, and you   
   > blithely screw it in to fasten it down, you might get an avant-garde   
   > spiral cut into the softer anodized aluminum. Looks unprofessional...   
   >   
   > So, unscrew the thumbscrew out about 3/16ths of an inch.   
   >   
   > Slot fillers are blood spilling devices. Or can be, lots of pressure,   
   > trying to slide a thin steel item into the aluminum adapter guide formed   
   > in the rear wall of the case.   
   >   
   > Notice the "T" shape at the top of the slot filler. This "T" slides into   
   > a "cradle" at the top of the aluminum guide. But that isn't the only   
   > gotcha... The slot fillers on either side ALSO fit into that "cradle",   
   > and you might have those "ears" interfering with running the slot cover   
   > home.   
   >   
   > My weg of sliding a slot filler home is to use one or two fingers on the   
   > inside _AS WELL AS_ the outside to keep the slot filler relatively   
   > aligned to the exposed threads of the thumbscrew.   
   >   
   > If the slot filler "ears" will not seat below the top of the cradle,   
   > STOP and czech that the "U" is over the threads [not the anodized   
   > aluminum!] and that one or both "ears" are not stacked up on other   
   > "ears" or the "ears" are not inside the "cradle".   
   >   
   > If the slot filler is incorrectly aligned, and you are applying more   
   > force, your fingers might slip and get cut by the very thin steel. It sux.   
   >   
   > Closing the side wall is another possumble opportunity to give a blood   
   > offering to Chester Heath [PBUH]. If you are holding onto the top of the   
   > case, insure your fingers are OUTSIDE of the case when you swing the   
   > side wall closed. It may not be sharp, but when the side wall is pivoted   
   > shut on the rearward edge, you now have mechanical advantage, much more   
   > when your fingers are close to the rear of the case. So which will fail   
   > first? Heavy gauge steel or your fingers? Pretty much any cleaner will   
   > remove fresh blood...   
   >   
   > Lastly, if you use the stiff and heavy IBM SCSI cables on the external   
   > port, you can "cock" the SCSI adapter in the slot, depends on the force   
   > from the cable [placing a SCSI scanner on top puts a curve in the   
   > cable], how well the adapter was seated, and how well fastened down the   
   > thumbscrew is.   
   >   
   > No need to uber-torque the thumbscrew, the kink in the stiff cable is   
   > the most significant part of the leveraging force. Be thoughtful of the   
   > stresses of the cable alignment.   
   >   
   > Anyways, it didn't smoke the Corvette, but it DID cause some hard SCSI   
   > errors and bizarre symptoms.   
   > Louis Ohland wrote:   
   > > IMHO, a 95 is hard to kill.   
   > >   
   > > The 95 in question is a single serial, single parallel planar version   
   > > with probably a 329w PSU. For the uninformed, a 95A is the must-have   
   > > system. -BUT- a DSDP system CANNOT use ANY T0/T1/T2/T3 complexi. So if   
   > > you are ever curious about swapping, the 95A will only take T4 complexi...   
   > >   
   > >  It needs to be powered up to czech on PSU functionality.   
   > >   
   > > PSUs have a transformer made with a sintered core that is not   
   > > indestructible. They can be cracked with a sharp enough impact [but   
   > > you'd see the case damage] -OR- a strong impulse [say, a lightning   
   > > strike or bad day for power company]. Not common. Picking it up isn't a   
   > > bad thing if you can do it...   
   > >   
   > > Speaking of picking it up, it has a goodly heft empty, even without   
   > > drives. @ 50 imperial pounds, empty.   
   > >   
   > > While looking lustfully at the battery holder, look for green spooge.   
   > > The majority of the time, it can be neutralized with baking soda and   
   > > water. Use an old toothbrush or even Q-Tips to apply the mix. Wash off   
   > > with water. Do NOT use soap in the shower on the planar.   
   > >   
   > > Go to this clandestine meeting with two floppies in your hand. Refdisk   
   > > and Diags for the Type 2. It would be neat-o if the op sendt pictures of   
   > > the complex, if anyone did some hot complex swapping action, it could be   
   > > something else.   
   > >   
   > > Personally, I would take all adapters and the complex out, blow out the   
   > > slots with compressed air [computer duster]. Pull all the memory as   
   > > well. Hose it down, er, take a pass at the SIMM sockets as well.   
   > >   
   > > Thoughtfully re-install the SIMMs, other than the end clips snapping   
   > > into place in the holes on the SIMM, you don't need a lot of moxie. If   
   > > the SIMM is hesitant, confirm the orientation, ensure you use a slight   
   > > angle to insert the SIMM contacts into the socket, and try again.   
   > >   
   > > Here's where you can get buffed! Take a banknote or high end paper, fold   
   > > it for rigidity, and use it to buff the gold contacts on the complex. DO   
   > > NOT USE ANYTHING ABRASIVE! Once done, the contacts will be shiny, might   
   > > still be able to see some drag marks from the slot spring fingers, but   
   > > those are OK.   
   > >   
   > > WBST [PBUH] opined that inserting / removing adapters / complex a few   
   > > times would cause the spring contacts in the slot to break through any   
   > > corrosion [within reason!]. But... the banknote routine works on all   
   > > gold contacts [adapters, complexi, SIMMs].   
   > >   
   > > Re-install the complex. This is where speed can kill.   
   > >   
   > > https://www.ardent-tool.com/complex/Install.html   
   > >   
   > > I have wandted to take compromising, explicit pictures of this. Read,   
   > > THINK, and do. Note that a 95 is a tower [of Power!] and the double-wide   
   > > MCA complex slot is at a right angle to the ground. If you choose to   
   > > stick the complex in while the system is standing, the complex will   
   > > wandt to hang down while you try to hold it at the ends.   
   > >   
   > > Pro tip: put the 95 on it's side, and THEN install the complex. In   
   > > reality, a single PCB "H" is fairly svelte, so they are somewhat   
   > > indifferent to installation orientation. Type 1 and Type 3 [especially!]   
   > > with upgrade CPUs and L2 cache [Type 1 can have the daughtercard] will   
   > > have some angle to the dangle.   
   > >   
      
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