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|    alt.comp.os.windows-11    |    Steaming pile of horseshit Windows 11    |    4,852 messages    |
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|    Message 4,766 of 4,852    |
|    Paul to Lars Poulsen    |
|    Re: External hard drives and enclosures     |
|    19 Feb 26 11:29:38    |
      From: nospam@needed.invalid              On Thu, 2/19/2026 9:02 AM, Lars Poulsen wrote:       > Summarizing until now:       >       > My rebuild of my Linux home workstation/server with new Seagate 2TB       > drives has made me look for how to best reuse the older drives. A       > handful of 1TB drives and external HDD drives of 1TB, 2TB and 6TB.       > Some of these were recycled and I had been using them in open       > "caddies", while others were bought in external enclosures for use as       > backup drives. Since the triggering factor for the rebuild was       > discovering "bit rot" in my large archives of JPG photo files       > (approaching 2TB), and MP3 music files (about 600GB by now), that       > had been building up so gradually that when I found it, even some       > 2 year old backups were bad, I have now become acutely aware that       > I need to look at reliability issues and monitor SMART data so I get       > warnings before the errors become uncorrectable.       >       > Quite recently, I had bought a 6TB external drive "Seagate Backup+ Hub"       > with the intention of consolidating the video files that had been       > squeezed into corners with a little free space here and there into       > a single file system. As I was preparing to clean and repartition it       > for use with the new system, I discovered that Linux will not show       > SMART data for it. That has made me consider ripping the drive out of       > the enclosure and putting it in a "better" enclosure.       >       > There are a ton of enclosures (as well as caddies/adapters) on the       > market, starting at $10 and with many in the $18-$30 range. All ofr       > these are Chinese made, and even on Amazon, most of them are shipped       > from China. Whether on Amazon, Walmart or other marketplaces, there       > is no reliable technical information posted, such as whether they       > support SMART or what chip(set) they use. While I have good experience       > with caddies, they look messy on a desk, and scare the house cleaner,       > so I'd like a tidy enclosure. When looking at enclosure reviews on       > Amazon, less than 80% (in some cases down to 60%) have 5 star ratings.       > Some reviews say "dead on arrival", "computer did not recognize drive       > when mounted in enclosure" on other obvious flaws that would give you a       > chance to return the product, others describe initial success, followed       > by failures after a week, or 3-4 months, that seem consistent with       > overheating quickly but gradually deteriorating the controller board,       > often killing the drive.       >       > There are some enclosures where the supplier explicitly says that       > SMART is supported, the product is stocked in local Amazon warehouses       > and there is a decent warranty, but now we get into a different price       > range: $60-$80. At which point, why bother: For not a lot more, I can       > buy a new external drive package from Seagate or Westerni Digital with       > a decent warranty (2 years with my BestBuy membership).       >       > But it bothers me to throw away drives, some of which are likely       > to have years of service life in them.       >       > It looks like Paul has similar thinking, and has put efforts into       > researching the topic.              My method would be to test the drives while SATA connected.       That ensures that with a modern SMART tool (not HDTune 2.55),       the definitions of the SMART entries is known.              SMART does not guarantee that trouble can be spotted. I've also       used read benchmarks as a metric. But this is very difficult to       do in a convincing manner -- quiet scans are tough to set up.              Using a Win10 32-bit OS installation, then installing Macrium 32-bit       version, then making 32-bit Rescue Media, you can boot from a       CD and cd into C: and access the HDTune 2.55 there (32 bit). By copying       one DLL file from System32 on the C: OS, into the HDTune Program       Files folder, the HDTune executable can run in a WinPE 10 environment.       Doing it this way, is *supposed* to result in the OS not disturbing       the benchmark run. The spikes in the trace might be excused as       zoned-disk behavior, but I cannot be sure. In other words, I'm       still not 100% happy with how these scans look, but I do have one       500GB disk which is saintly and using it to test for OS-behavior it       would be quite quite clean.               [Picture]               https://i.postimg.cc/yxTKRFkb/quiet-HDTune-run.gif              There is nothing particularly wrong with the second drive. You can       see Disk#35 is artificially capped on speed. If it was on the       SATA II port, I would think the speed would be faster than that.       If it were related to platter encoding or read channel capability,       the pattern would have more of a gradual curve. The first SATA drives,       left the factory as bridged IDE drives, with a "133MB/sec cap" on       speed. That's where the flat line came from on the first generation.              The yellow seek-dots, are pretty well clustered. I've had       drives with anomalous seek, where the drive continued to work       reliably. The mostly healthy scans in that example, are       not approaching the point where I would be even remotely worried       about my JPEGs or vids being corrupted. It would practically take       a FireHD or an SSD, to start throwing corruptions like that,       and only in the most dire circumstances (approaching end-life       on writes-per-location).              One test I would be doing, is checking whether the       hash of the files on the drive, changes on every run,       implying a bad SATA cable, or even, a bad SATA electrical       interface on one end. I've had one electrical issue on a       drive, a 2TB HDD, and I had to retire it before it       burned something. There is no way (without a digital scope),       to tell the electrical level is outside the allowed common mode.              The following is a very quick summary, of hashing.              ******* Some info on hashdeep/md5deep checksumming, just the basics *******              https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Md5deep               https://github.com/jessek/hashdeep/ # source only               2014: V4.4               https://github.com/jessek/hashdeep/releases               md5deep-4.4.zip 3.62 MB <=== link is inconvenient to copy, use the       link on page        Need your "good" browser to get the       file.        Name: md5deep-4.4.zip        Size: 3,792,436 bytes (3703 KiB)        SHA256: D5E85933E74E5BA6A73F67346BC2E765075D26949C831A42       166C92772F67DBC               You can unpack one of the EXE from the ZIP for usage. hashdeep64.exe       on a 64 bit machine perhaps.               L:\hashdeep64.exe -h # reference to       instructions               cd /d c:\ # Set the working       dir. Original test tree C:\Downloads               L:\hashdeep64.exe -j 1 -c md5 -r Downloads > L:\audit.txt # Generate a       filelist with hashes, single threaded              [continued in next message]              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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