From: blnospambergman@earthlink.invalid
On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 03:52:31 GMT, "LucifinaMae" wrote:
>>You still need the resistor pack. If the fuse was the problem, the fan would
>>not work at all.
>
>Yes! Definitely the resistor pack. Two of the coils are broken and the
>ceramic running along all of them are broken and missing.
When you replace the resistor, keep an eye on the heater blower
motor function itself. If the motor is flaky because of worn brushes
or bad bearings it'll start fine then quit after running a while.
The combination of locked-rotor current from the stalled motor and
no cooling fan airflow blowing over the coils of the resistor pack
will quickly burn up the new resistor pack. A very expensive way to
stop the motor current.
>>ONE MORE TEST
>>Find out if the heater is TRYING to blow hot.
>
>The heater does nothing but blow really cold air directly into the cab. I
>live in Northern California, below snow level but certainly cold. The
>outside air temp has ranged between the 50's up to low 70's when I've been
>driving. It does seem that the truck's temp gauge registers colder when it's
>colder, but it hasn't gotten into a normal operating range since I bought it.
>Right now it's 46 degrees, I drove the truck earlier today and just had it
>warmed up in the driveway for over 5 minutes, but to no avail; the air
>blowing into the cab is the same temp as the air outside....
Thermostat failed open, or missing.
Get the new t-stat at the dealer - there are minor visible
differences between the aftermarket ones that make major operational
differences if you use the wrong unit... And they can be installed
backwards, so read the Service Manual.
Note that sometimes people remove the t-stat to "fix" (mask) another
problem like a badly clogged radiator or an eroded water pump. Don't
be too surprised if you fix one problem and find another.
--<< Bruce >>--
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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