On Sat, 17 Jan 2009 05:30:57 GMT, someone@some.domain wrote:   
      
   >In article , clare@snyder.on.ca   
   wrote:   
   >>On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 18:58:29 -0800 (PST), al  wrote:   
   >>   
   >>>On Jan 16, 4:30 pm, 1991 Yota (1...@nowhere.com) wrote:   
   >>>> On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 07:10:50 -0800 (PST), al  wrote:   
   >>>> >Sorry to hear of your problems.  Let's look at the most critical thing   
   >>>> >first - the brake failure.  A common brake failure is an internal   
   >>>> >master cylinder leak.  No brake fluid leaks outside.  Instead, the   
   >>>> >internal master cylinder seals fail and the fluid can't maintain   
   >>>> >sufficient hydraulic pressure.  Hence, no brakes.     
   >>>>   
   >>>> And apparently this type of truck has a MC with two pistons, according   
   >>>> to the shop, and when one fails, it bypasses the other, so you don't   
   >>>> get stopping power.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> I did notice the next morning when I pulled it out of the driveway   
   >>>> into the street so it could be loaded up on a flatbed to be towed to   
   >>>> the shop, that I had some pump (resistance against the pedal) back   
   >>>> again. Not a normal amount, but *some* whereas I had virtually none by   
   >>>> the time I crawled back in the driveway when the incident occurred the   
   >>>> afternoon before.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> >This type of   
   >>>> >failure often can occur not long after any type of brake work is   
   >>>> >done.  If the shop tries to bleed the brakes and does it the old   
   >>>> >standard way of opening the bleeder valve and repeatedly pumping the   
   >>>> >brake pedal to the floor, then the piston and seal in the master   
   >>>> >cylinder can travel into parts of the master cylinder that are no   
   >>>> >longer perfectly smooth.  The rubbing of the seal against the rough   
   >>>> >portion of the master cylinder bore can lead eventually to seal   
   >>>> >failure.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> A really good point... hadn't thought about that. (My brake work was   
   >>>> done a year or more back, but that's interesting.)   
   >>>>   
   >>>> >The grease on the underbody almost certainly came from a ruptured CV   
   >>>> >boot.  I don't know where you live but premature boot failure often   
   >>>> >happens happens during cold weather when wet dirt and ice get impacted   
   >>>> >in the folds of the boot and then freeze solid.  This condition can   
   >>>> >rupture the boot as the boot tries to flex with hard, dirty ice frozen   
   >>>> >to it.  The key to long boot life is to keep them clean and supple.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> I live in SO CA, and while we did have a cold snap a few weeks back,   
   >>>> it's not brutal weather here. What can I put on the boots to keep them   
   >>>> supple? They stay clean b/c the truck sits pretty high off the road.   
   >>>>   
   >>>> >Hope all this helps.  Good luck.  Al   
   >>>>   
   >>>> Thanks so much --   
   >>>   
   >>>It is good policy to clean the CV boots whenever you have the tires   
   >>>off.  Simply rotate the wheel with the steering wheel fully turned in   
   >>>one direction.  That exposes all the folds of the boot.  Cleaning them   
   >>>with any solvent, WD40 or the like, is fine.  Once clean, treat them   
   >>>with silicone lubricant like you would use on any rubber   
   >>>weatherstripping.  That methodology should increase the life of the   
   >>>boots greatly.   
   >>>Good luck.  Al   
   >> The OP said the boots were replaced a year or so ago. They should not   
   >>have deteriorated in that time.   
   >>On my 88 Chrysler I replaced at least one boot per year - some years 2   
   >>- and not due to deterioration. They got damaged by winter ice. Rip   
   >>them right off.   
   >that or a rock.   
      
   The 88 Chrysler didn't see many rocks, but it sure saw a lot of ice.   
      
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