On Mon, 05 Oct 2009 21:17:51 -0700, Susan wrote:
>On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 21:36:10 -0700, Jeff wrote:
>
>>I just reread you original post. I believe I found a clue, "Alarm
>>system is off as it should be..."
>>"...ALARM SYSTEM..."!!!
>>
>>Aftermarket, of course, with "Starter Disable"!
>>I would advise to tear it out.
>
>and...
>
>On Mon, 05 Oct 2009 01:25:51 -0600, Oldphart
> wrote:
>
>>I vote for the alarm also. 1993 toyota 4wd had the batter go dead,
>>changed it and had to reset the Audiovox alarm with the keyfob and the
>>pushbutton switch. In my case, taking it to an alarm store to have them
>>reset the system was costly so I let my son take it to school and the
>>teenage nerds in his shop class set things right. I vote to energize
>>the alarm also. It probably defaults to an Open Circuit when power is
>>cut disabling the starter as part of the antitheft feature.
>
>Okay. I'm all for it being the alarm's fault, but I'm not so sure.
>Here's a little background and you can tell me if you still think it's
>the alarm:
>
>First, this truck only had 2 owners before me, and the original guy
>who purchased it new had everything put it in at the time of purchase
>that was state of the art, at that time. This included a mobile phone
>with antenna on the back window, wired to the dash... this was in
>1991, mind you, when mobile phones were gigantic and rare. He had the
>alarm system installed too, (if it did not come as an option), but he
>did everything top of the line and the alarm has been in it from day
>one. (This truck has power locks, and when I press the keyfob to lock
>the truck, the alarm automatically engages.)
>
>Now comes the part that might change your mind. :) I have owned the
>truck since 2001, and during this time I have disconnected the battery
>many times. A few times to change batteries, other times when I was
>working on the truck and needed to disconnect the battery to do what I
>was doing. Whenever I have disconnected the battery, the alarm
>triggers as I am loosening the terminals (safety thing), then again as
>I am reconnecting it (same deal). I DREAD having to disconnect the
>battery for that reason.... the alarm is so darn loud. But the point
>is, it has never given me a problem afterwards. The truck has always
>started right up.
>
>Also, when I parked the truck last (last time I drove it, when
>everything was peachy), I parked it in my backyard, so I did not lock
>it. Meaning the alarm was not engaged. Now weeks later, I walk out and
>go to start it, and ... nothing. AND the battery did not die during
>this period or even get weak b/c a solar panel was keeping it charged.
>
>Nevertheless, when the truck would not start I wondered about the
>alarm system just because I was trying to cover everything it might
>be, so I threw the alarm's toggle switch and tried starting, but it
>didn't make a diff. I put the toggle back. I also sat inside the truck
>and put the alarm on, then took it off, and tried again.
>
>So, I do not want to 'tear out the alarm' if it isn't the problem, as
>it's a good alarm and has never caused me problems. And I have never
>had to "reset it" after losing power.... but I guess it could have a
>"state" I don't know about, though after 9 years of owning this truck
>that would be a little surprising!
>
>Do you guys still think it's the alarm, or does that scenario seem
>less likely now? (I really wish I could have elminated some things
>today, but was helping my folks all day.)
99.999% it is not the alarm.
I'm coming in late, so please forgive me if I'm asking questions that
have been answered.
I was Toyota service manager back just before that truck was made.
Does the horn work?
How about the headlights?
If the headlights work, do they go out when you try to start the
truck?
If the horn doesn't work and/or the headlights don'y work and/or they
go out when you try to start it you have either a bad battery or a bad
connection- on either the power or ground side.
First check is terminals - must be clean and bright - and tight.
Next is the ground connection. Same as above. put a battery jumper
cable from the battery - to a good clean engine ground and try again.
If no joy, go to a clean body/chassis ground and try again.
Still no joy?
Is this a 4 cyl or a six?
if a 4 the starter can be seen on the right? side of the block(just
going from memory) facing forward from the frot of the
transmission/bell housing. It will have 2 wires(or at least terminals
- could be more wires) - one BIG battery cable with 12 or 14mm nut,
and one smaller wire - either 8mm nut or slip-on type connector. make
sure both are connected and "clean, bright, and tight".
Do NOT attempt to tighten or even apply a wrench without disconnecting
the battery - (ground) connection.
There should be 12 volts on the big one at all times, and on the
little one when cranking (or attempting to).
If there is power on the big one, but not the little one, you have a
control circuit problem - bad ign switch, bat neutral safety switch,
or that 0.0001% chance - an alarm problem.
Jumping power from the big terminal to the little one should crank the
engine. if it doesn't, and all other (previous) tests check out, you
need a starter..Or at .least need ir repaired. A worn or stuck starter
brush can prevent the starter solenoid from pulling in - particularly
if there is any resistance in the control circuit. Whacking the
starter with a block of wood while attempting to crank will often get
it to start - at least once- in order to drive it to a shop to have
the starter done.
If it is a six, the starter location will be harder to get to, but the
tests remain the same.
Keep us up to date with what you find.
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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