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|    alt.autos.toyota.trucks    |    Toyota thought Gung Ho was a documentary    |    28,556 messages    |
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|    Message 27,569 of 28,556    |
|    Susan to clare@snyder.on.ca    |
|    Re: 91 SR5 4x4 won't turn over    |
|    07 Oct 09 11:59:15    |
      From: susan@rooftop.com              On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 22:37:10 -0400, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:              >99.999% it is not the alarm.       >       >I'm coming in late, so please forgive me if I'm asking questions that       >have been answered.       >       >I was Toyota service manager back just before that truck was made.       >       >Does the horn work?       >How about the headlights?       >If the headlights work, do they go out when you try to start the       >truck?              Everything works great. Horn, lights, radio, dash lights, everything.       Battery was checked with a charger and tested fully charged. Is also a       newer battery, and terminals are clean and tight.              Lights do not dim, even a little, when I turn the key to try to start       it. No click. No crank. Silence.              When key is in ON position, all dash warning lights are on, like       normal.              >First check is terminals - must be clean and bright - and tight.       > Next is the ground connection. Same as above. put a battery jumper       >cable from the battery - to a good clean engine ground and try again.       >If no joy, go to a clean body/chassis ground and try again.              Excellent, solid ground off neg terminal to body chassis, but tried       anyway as suggested and this wasn't it.                     >Is this a 4 cyl or a six?              V6              >if a 4 the starter can be seen on the right? side of the block(just       >going from memory) facing forward from the frot of the       >transmission/bell housing. It will have 2 wires(or at least terminals       >- could be more wires) - one BIG battery cable with 12 or 14mm nut,       >and one smaller wire - either 8mm nut or slip-on type connector. make       >sure both are connected and "clean, bright, and tight".       >Do NOT attempt to tighten or even apply a wrench without disconnecting       >the battery - (ground) connection.       >       >There should be 12 volts on the big one at all times, and on the       >little one when cranking (or attempting to).       >If there is power on the big one, but not the little one, you have a       >control circuit problem - bad ign switch, bat neutral safety switch,       >or that 0.0001% chance - an alarm problem.              >Jumping power from the big terminal to the little one should crank the       >engine. if it doesn't, and all other (previous) tests check out, you       >need a starter..Or at .least need ir repaired. A worn or stuck starter       >brush can prevent the starter solenoid from pulling in - particularly       >if there is any resistance in the control circuit. Whacking the       >starter with a block of wood while attempting to crank will often get       >it to start - at least once- in order to drive it to a shop to have       >the starter done.              >If it is a six, the starter location will be harder to get to, but the       >tests remain the same.       >       >Keep us up to date with what you find.              Thanks for that. I will probably need to test these things, but since       they are difficult for me to find and do, I am going to see if I can       Google on how to check the starter relay... it would be REALLY NICE if       that's all it needed! :)              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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