From: susan@rooftop.com   
      
   On Wed, 07 Oct 2009 17:27:17 -0700, Susan  wrote:   
      
      
   >> 1 and 2 are the coil - should be about 60 ohms,   
   >>and 3 and 4 are the contacts. If you jump 3 and 4 in the socket the   
   >>engine should crank.   
   >   
   >When you say to jump it in the socket, I assume you mean I should   
   >twist the little "locks" in the corners to lift off the plastic   
   >housing, then install it in the truck, then jump 3 and 4, right?   
      
   Nevermind! I realized you either just jump the sockets without the   
   relay, or insert a wire, then plug in the relay, but you don't take   
   the relay apart.   
      
   I am keeping all these instructions for when I find the starter relay,   
   because in trying this stuff tonight, I realized the relay I replaced   
   is the HEADLAMP relay. When I jumped 3 and 4 the headlights came on.   
   The plastic cover on this block also says "HEAD" over the relay I   
   replaced, but I thought this was the starter relay because I don't   
   have one at the kick panel, where the majority of them are (on this   
   model, from what I understand). I figured the cover was mismarked.   
   GUESS NOT.   
      
   And now I'm starting to wonder if the alarm IS involved, because I   
   have to wonder if they took OUT the starter relay when they installed   
   the alarm... like maybe because it has it's own relay built in.   
   Because it is installed right there at the kick panel, where the relay   
   should be.   
      
   I took some pics of the kick panel block, and made a note where the   
   Chilton manual says the starter relay should be:   
      
   http://bydesklight.com/SR.html   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)