In article , "Stumpy"
wrote:
>>>>
>>>> You need to POLISH it first BEFORE waxing.
>>>> The "polishing" may involve staring with 600 grit wet sandpaper, going
>>>> down ro 1500, then 2000 - then polishing with a "rouge" type polisg,
>>>> before "sealing" or protecting with wax, or better yet, a sealer
>>>> DESIGNED for the purpose - like Plastex, etc.
>>>>
>>>> Had the same problem on my PT Cruiser and Mystique
>>>
>>>The wax was all dried up - must have been 20 years old. Found some
>>>Meguilar's Mirror Glaze 17 which says that it will remove fine scratches
>>>from clear plastics. Tried polishing 3 times. It looks better, but the
>>>crazing seems to be mostly on the inside. Didn't really work.
>>>
>>>If I'm going to the trouble of removing the cover to polish the inside,
>>>I
>>>might as well buy a replacement. Might save the old one and have it ready
>>>for 2016.
>>>
>> TRY the sandpaper first - if it works - good. If not you haven't lost
>> anything. I started with 600 and soapy water, went to 1000 with WSW
>> fluid, the 2000 with WSW fluid, then plastex and a sponge.
>
>Found out that the cover is part of headlight assembly. $65 @ JCWitney.
>
>http://www.jcwhitney.com/original-equipment-style-headlamps/p20
6723.jcwx?filte
>rid=d2193y2007j1
>
>The local O'Reilly had a $7 Turtle Wax kit with manual sanding pads - It
>worked pretty good, but I think I'll be doing this more than once. Will
>order the drill disk system Dan mentioned for $17 and settle for whatever
>improvement I can get.The 3M drill disks are for next time.
>
>There is a big difference in how far the headlights project the beam after
>polishing.
>
>
i've found brasso best for clearing plastic. model builders have used it for
years to make canopys look like glass.
it works on headlight stuff, too. use a buffer pad on a wheel.
costs about $6
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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