cc28bc87   
   From: ballyowner@SPAMcox.net   
      
   Thanks for the tips.   
   I'm sure they'll come in handy when I finally get around to making my   
   wallbox work.   
      
   Glen   
      
      
   "Rob in NYC"  wrote in message   
   news:f3ada1a4-fe5b-48cc-8aad-7a062f52ffcc@z3g2000yqz.googlegroups.com...   
   > As someone who has 92 of these 200's in retro diner operation, I have   
   > some suggestions:   
   >   
   > 2050 Tube: Is it strong? try it in the trip, then cancel a selection   
   > and see if it glows in the grid area (center)..it should be a deep   
   > violet NOT sky blue.   
   >   
   > Wallbox contacts: With the box disconnected, connect an ohm meter or   
   > anything that can measure continuity between the box chassis and the   
   > signal connection (blue wire screw). Without pushing any button,   
   > slowly turn the contact wiper by hand and note that you get continuity   
   > at every rivet and if can measure resistance, check that there is less   
   > than 500 ohms...ideally near zero ohms.   
   >   
   > Note also that on these boxes they have the signal line routed into   
   > the credit unit, Stupid idea and will often cause a continuous short   
   > when tow or more credits are established.. you can eliminate this   
   > possibility by cutting the COLORED PLASTIC WIRE at the junction of   
   > letters and number contacts on that circular board where the wiper   
   > blade makes the pulses. The wire will usually be the only colored wire   
   > with all the others being brown cloth. If you are unsure leave it   
   > alone.   
   >   
   > Beyond this point it depends on how comfortable you are working in   
   > these electro-mechanical environments.   
   >   
   > Stepper:Did you replace the 5MFD non-polarized capacitor (1in square   
   > by approx 5in tall) riveted to the side wall of the selection rcvr?   
   > Don't even think of getting reliable selections without changing this.   
   > I use either two 10MFD caps back to-back (100volt or greater for each)   
   > or else make up this value with 5, 1MFD 200volt mylar caps, you can   
   > get these from Rat Shack.Drill out the old big cap and use one of the   
   > holes to mount a terminal strip for the new caps.   
   >   
   > That alone will take care of the bulk of stepper probs, however you   
   > should also check for proper mechanical action. Do the wheels go -   
   > completely- back to their starting positions, does the butterfly "Y"   
   > shaped arm in the center stay down until the last pulse has passed and   
   > the unit starts scanning? If not the 300MFD cap right under the   
   > stepper must be changed -use same or greater values.   
   >   
   > Check that the transfer relay is engaging with the first set of pulses   
   > and releases during the interval between "letters and numbers" These   
   > rarely give trouble but can cause the symptom you have. Another   
   > problem is the roller contact on top of the letter stepper wheel. This   
   > switch must transfer from the "at rest" top and middle contact, to the   
   > top and bottom contact during the first two pulses. this can be tricky   
   > as the roller should not exert too much pressure on the stepper wheel   
   > or it can cause it to not go all the way back to it's starting   
   > position.   
   >   
   > These units also have another roller switch on the number stepper   
   > check the action here also (I always eliminate this switch   
   > altogether).   
   >   
   > There are a fair number of other mods I do to make these more reliable   
   > for commercial use, but these hints will get you started.   
   >   
   > Rob in NYC   
      
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