XPost: alt.home.repair, uk.d-i-y
From: Gothberg"@internet.co.is
On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 14:51:00 -0000, Snicker wrote:
> In article , "William
> Gothberg"@internet.co.is says...
>>
>> On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 14:26:21 -0000, Snicker wrote:
>>
>>> In article , "William
>>> Gothberg"@internet.co.is says...
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 12:51:53 -0000, Art Todesco
wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 12/19/2018 7:35 AM, William Gothberg wrote:
>>>>>> On Wed, 19 Dec 2018 12:18:54 -0000, Rod Speed
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> William Gothberg <"William Gothberg"@internet.co.is> wrote
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Those fake starters people put into fluorescent fittings when they
>>>>>>>> put in
>>>>>>>> an LED tube.... what's inside?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> A bit of wire between the pins.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> An LED tube draws power from the two ends, I looked inside one of my
>>>>>>>> tubes
>>>>>>>> and the two pins at each end are shorted together.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> They don't all do it the same way.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The LED PSU takes power from both ends if you see what I mean, it
>>>>>>>> expects
>>>>>>>> live at one end and neutral at the other. So why on earth would you
>>>>>>>> need
>>>>>>>> anything in the starter, even if you left the ballast in?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Because the simple bimetallic strip starters have the pins
>>>>>>> on the starter connected initially and not connected
>>>>>>> when it warms up due to the current between the pins.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Surely it's best to have the starter open circuit, i.e. just remove
it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Some do work like that.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Does it perhaps in some way negate the inductive nature of the
>>>>>>>> ballast to
>>>>>>>> be nicer to the LED PSU?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> No it does not. So its better, but not as easy, to disconnect the
>>>>>>> ballast as
>>>>>>> well.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The properly made LED tubes are connected live at one end and neutral at
>>>>>> the other. You just remove the starter, and the LEDs operate in series
>>>>>> with the ballast (or directly to the mains if you can be bothered
>>>>>> opening the casing and shorting/removing the ballast).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So the tubes where they have live and neutral on the same end, require
>>>>>> supplying a fake starter instead of just removing it, surely an
>>>>>> unnecessary extra expense. The only reason I can find for making them
>>>>>> like this is some daft safety regulation about having live and neutral
>>>>>> at opposite ends. Better insulation required to meet safety standards
>>>>>> incase you grab live and neutral with your two hands? Surely either the
>>>>>> casing of the LED tube is metal, which means you can't get a different
>>>>>> voltage on each hand, or plastic, which means it won't conduct power to
>>>>>> you.
>>>>> I just bought some LED 4' tubes that can be wired any way you want. I
>>>>> don't know the internal circuitry, but I do plan to dissect one to find
>>>>> out. These can be powered from one end (either one), both ends and,
>>>>> when powering from both ends, the pins can be shunted or not. There
>>>>> seems to be no combination that doesn't work!
>>>>
>>>> I can think of a way it might be connected, but please look inside to
satisfy our curiosity!
>>>>
>>>> Kinda like a bridge rectifier but with 4 inputs instead of 2 - any pin of
the tube being positive goes through a positive diode, any pin being negative
goes through a negative diode (as in connected backwards).
>>>>
>>>> You know, a diagram would be easier: https://www.dropbox.co
/s/clfblkmb6pyqyl8/tube.jpg?dl=0
>>>
>>> PLease don't respond if you don't know what you're talking about.
>>
>> Please don't attempt to make fun of me without explaining what you think I
said wrong.
>
> Don't cry about it.
I wasn't, I was just trying to stop you making a fool of yourself.
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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