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   alt.os.linux      Getting to be as bloated as Windows!      107,822 messages   

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   Message 107,338 of 107,822   
   Dan Purgert to Paul   
   Re: Crimping tool, odd review   
   30 May 25 14:10:13   
   
   XPost: uk.comp.os.linux, alt.comp.microsoft.windows   
   From: dan@djph.net   
      
   On 2025-05-30, Paul wrote:   
   > On Thu, 5/29/2025 6:02 PM, Java Jive wrote:   
   >> On 2025-05-29 19:48, Theo wrote:   
   >>>   
   >>> In uk.comp.os.linux Java Jive  wrote:   
   >>>>   
   >>>> As I understand, the two halves of those testers slide apart and you can   
   >>>> put one half at each end to perform the test.   
   >>>   
   >>> Do you need to see both ends to run the test, or is one sufficient?   
   >>>   
   >>> I saw a video showing that a green light on each part scans down the   
   numbers   
   >>> 1 to 8 then 'G'.  But I'm not sure if you are testing that the lights   
   match   
   >>> at both ends, or if a fault is only shown at the end that detects it.   
   >>>   
   >>> (eg if you had open circuit at one end and a short at the other, what would   
   >>> it tell you?)   
   >>   
   >> Well, I've not used one, so I'm guessing based solely on electronic   
   logic.  Hopefully, if I'm wrong, someone will correct me.   
   >>   
   >> 1)  If the cable was miswired by crossing two cables, then I'd expect the   
   lights at one end, most probably the remote end, to light in the wrong order.   
   >>   
   >> 2)  If you have a short at one end, I'd expect two lights to be on at the   
   same time at least at that end, probably at both.   
   >>   
   >> 3)  If you have an open circuit, I'd expect the corresponding light at one   
   end or the other to fail to light.   
   >>   
   >> But let's see if anyone can confirm what actually happens based on actual   
   experience.   
   >>   
   >   
   > A GbE chip, has MDI/MDIX and the two ends of the cable   
   > automatically negotiate the highest rate they can manage.   
   > I presume in this case, that starts with selecting   
   > GbE full duplex 1gbit mode and trying to make that work.   
      
   Note that MDI-X is more of a (fast-)ethernet thing, and not really used   
   by gbit-ethernet. This is because, whereas (fast-)ethernet specifies   
   pins 1,2 as TX, and 3,6 as RX, gbit-ethernet utilizes all four pairs   
   bidirectionally.   
      
   Least in 25 years, I've never seen a link come up at gbit with a   
   crossover-cable.  There *might* be something about this in the gbit   
   specs, but I don't have them to hand anymore :( .   
      
   >   
   > If the four pairs do not operate, for whatever reason,   
   > the negotiation will eventually drop to 100BT and the   
   > two pairs on 1,2,3,6 . I don't think there is a reason   
   > for the GbE end to move to 10BT 1,2,3,6, unless some kind   
   > of response from the other end, indicates that is all the   
   > hardware can manage.   
      
   If the cable is sufficiently damaged, it might fail down to 10 before   
   dropping link.   
      
   >   
   > A second kind of diagnostic, is a Marvell Ethernet Chip,   
   > has a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometer), it shoots a pulse   
   > down each pair. If the end is shorted or open, that causes   
   > a reflection off the spot, and the Marvell   
   > logic block measures the pulse polarity and arrival time   
   > (possibly to the nearest 1 nanosecond). If your cable   
   > was shorted in the middle and not at the crimp, the TDR   
   > method tells you roughly where to look for crushing damage.   
   >   
   > I'm not aware of any NIC PHY having the ability to work   
   > at the "I've got eight wires level" and figure out   
   > what is connected to what, as a means of vetting home made   
   > cables with the wires shoved in the wrong holes (like   
   > an attempt to make a "rolled" cable). For that matter,   
   > the MDI/MDIX on the Gbe, is even capable of dealing   
   > with "straight" wiring pattern or "rolled" wiring   
   > pattern. Either cable works. Whereas with 100BT NICs   
   > as endpoints, if you use the wrong cable, it fails   
   > to function, you switch cable types (remove that yellow   
   > cable from the broadband modem box), and the interface   
   > starts to work.   
      
   If by "rolled", you mean swapping pin1 for pin8 (and likewise all the   
   rest), you are correct in that no NIC can figure that mess out.   
      
   If you mean swapping between 568-A/B on the same cable (pairs 2 and 3 -   
   white-green/green and white-orange/orange -- i.e. "creating a crossover   
   cable"), gbit NICs will likely downgrade to fast ethernet due to the   
   garbled bi-directional pairs.   
      
   In order to not accidentally creating crossover cables, regardless of   
   whether both ends are 8p8c connectors, or if only one end is -- pick   
   568-A or -B and stick with it everywhere (I learned it as 568-B first,   
   so that's my go-to).  When you do the 8p8c, the clip needs to be DOWN   
   (so you're looking at the bottom, with the gold contacts). Being   
   Right-Handed, I hold the 8p8c connector in the right hand and the cable   
   in my left.  This ends up setting the orientation as "farthest pin from   
   me" is pin 1.   
      
   This means that when I untwist the conductors and orient them for   
   insertion into the 8p8c, their orientation will be:   
      
     (farthest) white-orange   
     orange   
     white-green   
     blue   
     white-blue   
     green   
     white-brown   
     (closest) brown   
      
   If you're left-handed, everything just gets inverted (that is, the   
   farthest pin from you is pin 8).   
      
     (farthest) brown   
     white-brown   
     green   
     white-blue   
     blue   
     white-green   
     orange   
     (closest) white-orange   
      
   Then it's just a matter of trimming the conductors to the appropriate   
   length, getting everything into the appropriate pin slots, and the   
   outer sheathing to where that little strain-relief bit is (the   
   triangular / rectangular bit that deforms when you crimp down on the   
   8p8c).  This is sometimes far more difficult than it sounds :)   
      
   In the event of cat6 (indoor or outdoor cable), when you're cutting out   
   that stupid spacer on the inside, give it a decent yank so it stretches   
   out a little bit (about 1/8" or 3mm is enough), then cut it off. When   
   you cut it off, it'll retract back to its original length (or   
   thereabouts), and give you a little bit of an easier time of getting the   
   outer sheathing into the 8p8c connector.   
      
   HTH :)   
      
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