XPost: alt.comp.os.windows-11   
   From: nospam@needed.invalid   
      
   On Thu, 12/18/2025 10:24 PM, rbowman wrote:   
   > On Thu, 18 Dec 2025 23:07:00 +0100, Carlos E.R. wrote:   
   >   
   >> I just switch the front wheels to the rear, and the rear to the front,   
   >> at about 30000 Km, ⅓ of life. The front wheels get more worn out than   
   >> the rear, so I have to do that trick so that the four do last. The   
   >> mechanic doesn't like it, but I know my way of driving   
   >   
   > The Toyota maintenance schedule is to rotate the tires every 5000 miles.   
   > When I switch to studs in the winter I mark the LF, LR, RF, and RR tires   
   > and in the spring put the LF on the LR etc and call it good enough. I   
   > still don't get 90k km.   
   >   
      
   Exactly. I have a floor jack and two jack stands, and I did   
   the tires, and that's what you would find written on my tires   
   on the back side of them is LF, LR, RF, and RR. Here we change   
   between summer and winter tires. You don't drive all season radials   
   here, because they suck in the winter.   
      
   I also check tread depth with a gauge, to see how well the rotation   
   is working. You also check left-to-right tread, to spot the need   
   for a wheel alignment.   
      
   I terminate tires on a detectable loss of traction. That's why I had   
   a set that went to 60,000. Based on tread wear, they could be   
   driven further without being flagged, but once you see that the   
   traction isn't there, you replace them.   
      
   There is one winter tire like that. I think it's Blizzak? They   
   are great the first year, but the traction degrades faster than   
   other winter tires. By the fifth year, we'd likely find you   
   in a ditch somewhere.   
      
   The winter tires have "sipes" and that is what helps with the grip.   
   The larger tread pattern tosses out chunks of snow, the smaller   
   sipe pattern give you traction where there isn't any. On black ice though,   
   even if you back off on the accelerator, it may not be   
   sufficient to recover from a slide or drift in winter conditions.   
      
   Not all sipes are created equal. A Toyo with sipes rates as a "3",   
   a Michelin with sipes rates as a "5". You read reviews for tires   
   online, before you buy some. And no, we don't all drive on   
   Hakkapeliitta here :-)   
      
   We're not allowed to drive on steel studs, and this advert does   
   not say what the studs are made of. Some of our tires are augmented   
   with walnut shells, which is easier on the road surface. Even some   
   of the winter bicycle tires here, have walnut shells or similar   
   "soft" materials. I haven't checked but I doubt a steel stud on a   
   bicycle tire is really a good idea (engineering issue).   
      
   https://www.amazon.ca/Nokian-Hakkapeliitta-Studded-205-55R16/dp/B09BF64WZZ   
      
      Paul   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)