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|    comp.sys.apple2    |    Discussion about Apple II micros    |    56,720 messages    |
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|    Message 55,746 of 56,720    |
|    Anthony Ortiz to All    |
|    Re: Phase 0 ghosting/jitter - is this re    |
|    31 Aug 22 00:54:07    |
      From: anthonypaulo@gmail.com              > I looked briefly at the 1x. You have a lot of ringing. First, some ringing        > is fine, if that's the way the circuit is designed. Old NMOS/CMOS stuff        > is not trying to balance driver and receiver impedence, so I would expect        > things to not look "perfect". If there is real ringing, it's only a problem        > if the amplitude is so much that it causes the receiver to misread the        > signal (so, a clock ringing so much that it could be intereted as a new        > edge is a problem). As I explain to many people--some ringing is usually        > fine, it needs to be severe to be a problem.        >        > But: you showed the image of your probe--that's very useful. And you're        > probing incorrectly. You need the tip of the probe to be within say 1cm        > of the signal to be probed. You can not attach a long wire, and then        > attach the probe to that wire. If you want to see a signal on the        > motherboard, the probe tip must go right down there. You can solder on        > a VERY SHORT stub of less than 1cm (I often solder on a resistor, and        > then clip the lead down to <1cm since I can easily hold a resistor with        > pliers, it's thinner than usual solid wire, and it makes the soldering        > easy. You clip off the resistance blob itself). Then attach the probe        > to that SMALL stub.        >        > It looks like in slot 2 you have a prototyping card with a breakout        > connector, and you've stuck some wires in the connector for the signal        > and ground. These wires look to be about 6 inches long, and you've        > attached the probe to these wires. If you put a resistor in that        > connector instead, clip it to be short (and get rid of the resistance        > part), and probe that. No soldering needed. Not as good, since you're        > using an effective 3cm stub (the connector counts against you, sorry).        >        > The best is to take a real card, like the card in slot 5, and find the        > back side of a through hole chip with the signal you want. Solder on a        > resistor lead, then snip it to be very short (5mm is very easy to do,        > 3mm is great). Note: I don't use new solder usually, just melt the        > solder already there and it's enough to hold the stub. I find the probe        > won't really clip on to the through-hole leads as they are since there's        > not enough to grab onto beyond the solder ball. Then put the probe        > directly on that stub, and it should grab on easily. This is about the        > best I can do.        >        > One trick is to test out ringing by manually holding the probe tip on the        > signal as well, and see if the ringing gets better. If the 1cm stub shows        > ringing, try manually holding the probe and see if it gets better. If it        > still does, then there's just ringing on the signal. It happens.        >        > It's ok to probe "badly" if it's easy, or that it's not worth the        > trouble to probe properly. Try to look at the signals as "digital", and        > ignore kinks, ringing, etc.        >        > Kent              Hi Kent! Thank you so much for responding, this is a great explanation of what       I've been doing wrong. I'll do what you suggested and see what it looks like.       I figured the problem was likely to be me, and thanks to you I'll be able to       make a more informed        test from now on.              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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