From: none@none.com99   
      
   On 6/17/2024 3:49 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:   
   > "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:v4q2pi$skkt$1@dont-email.me...   
   >   
   > After Jim's suggestions to make my own tool box I started looking at low   
   > volume (as in physical space) methods of creating all the pivot points.   
   > The actual hinges of the box lids may need to be actual hinges.  I'm not   
   > sure I have the ability with the tools I currently own to make slip   
   > rolled hinges from the sheet metal.  They would need to be rolled quite   
   > small.  I do have a spot welder so it might be a good place to look into   
   > learning to use it.   
   >   
   > ----------------------------------   
   > I'd like to own a separate shear and finger brake but I lack the space,   
   > so when I ran a well equipped company model shop I experimented to see   
   > how little I could get away with at home. It came down to a 30"   
   > shear/brake/roll and hand tools like "seamer" pliers, a clone of the   
   > Roper #5 punch and layout tools. Punching is much neater than drilling   
   > sheetmetal, and the punch has a point to help align it in a layout   
   > dimple. Intersecting corners in a box should end in a small punched   
   > hole. A corner notcher is nice to have when folding trays and boxes, I   
   > bought one at auction, but it's not essential.   
   > .   
   > I've formed a hinge barrel around a rod in the bottom of a U bend by   
   > squeezing/hammering the folded flap shut, tightly up against the rod.   
   > This is easier and stronger than trying to roll up only the edge and   
   > leaves space for the spotwelds. I think the grooves in the 3-in-1's slip   
   > rollers could do it more neatly than I did with blocks of scrap, if I   
   > had planned the sequence of operations better. It helps to try your   
   > intended bends etc on scrap to be sure of machine clearances and limits.   
   > For instance I can't form a flange less than 1/2" wide with the press   
   > brake because a narrower one will slide down into the lower die. If I   
   > bend a narrower flange over an edge with a soft hammer the metal must be   
   > moved a little at a time from end to end or else it will stretch and   
   > warp the flange. Hammering on a piece of wood held against the flange   
   > works better than pounding directly on it, and sharpens the corner.   
   >   
   > For the tray link pivots I might make the links thick enough to tap for   
   > short or cut-off machine screws, use hobby store brass tube as the pivot   
   > bushing and lightly peen or Loctite the end of the threads into the   
   > link. The OD of #5 screws is 1/8",  #6 is 9/64" and #10 is 3/16". #8 may   
   > be slightly over 5/32", a tap will fit it. The heel of my small anvil is   
   > handy for riveting 3D shapes.   
   >   
   > Sheet metal can be sheared with a cold chisel along the top edges of   
   > hardened vise jaws, preferably reversed to put their smooth back sides   
   > against the work. This is useful for cutouts. It can be milled by   
   > screwing it to plywood around the edges and through any/all existing holes.   
   >   
   > Good luck!   
   >   
      
   Tiny little shoulder bolts might be a good option, but probably more   
   expensive in cash to buy or time to make.   
   --   
   Bob La Londe   
   CNC Molds N Stuff   
      
      
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