From: djb@invalid.com   
      
   On 17/06/2024 20:28, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   > After Jim's suggestions to make my own tool box I started looking at   
   > low volume (as in physical space) methods of creating all the pivot   
   > points. The actual hinges of the box lids may need to be actual   
   > hinges.  I'm not sure I have the ability with the tools I currently   
   > own to make slip rolled hinges from the sheet metal. They would need   
   > to be rolled quite small.  I do have a spot welder so it might be a   
   > good place to look into learning to use it.   
   >   
   > My big concern is the smooth tight pivoting of the tray links.  A pop   
   > rivet might not work for a couple reasons.  First is that it would   
   > clamp the link to the tray, and the send is that even the shortest pop   
   > rivet sticks into the space beyond a noticeable amount.  I got to   
   > wonder if there was a rivet that is designed to leave a fixed space   
   > between the flange and the mushroom.  To be used obviously as a pivot   
   > pin instead of a corby bolt, a machine screw, or other intrusive pivot   
   > pin.  It turns out there is a thing called a hinge rivet.  One vendor   
   > sells a 20 pack of them for 56 cents.  Quality unknown.  I've never   
   > used one and various searches including YouTube for using them   
   > resulted in guides and tutorials on riveting hinges.  Not hinge rivets.   
   >   
   > I thought about it little bit, and something like an eyelet tool with   
   > a fixed depth stop could probably be used/made to install them.    
   > Perhaps as a plier or compound plier tool.  I suppose a parallel   
   > compound plier tool would be ideal.  This way they could be set to   
   > whatever thickness clearance was needed so the pivot could move   
   > freely, but not to freely.   
   >   
   > On further thought I figured such hinge rivets could be made on the   
   > lathe, or possible even just out of plane tube.  Even ordinary open   
   > end pop rivets might work if removed from the mandrel.  Of course if   
   > the bag of 20 for 56¢ is any good there is no need to make them for   
   > relatively med/light weight applications like the link pivots on the   
   > trays of a hip roof box.   
   >   
   > Yes, Jim, I am thinking out loud to help get the job defined, but also   
   > I am open to suggestions from anybody who has already done any part of   
   > this type of work.   
   >   
   > P.S.  I do have a 48inch Tennsmith box brake, a smaller 30inch bench   
   > top brake, and even a smaller magnetic mounted vise brake for mangling   
   > sheet metal.  The last sheet metal job I did was making a stove cubby   
   > surround out of stainless sheet.  It turned out well enough for a   
   > relatively simple job, and provides a heat shield for the spice   
   > cabinets my wife laid out that come out half way along the sides of   
   > the stove between the upper and lower cabinets.  Yeah, I was not crazy   
   > about a fuel source int eh same area as some future potential grease   
   > fire.  The stainless looks good and provides shield hopefully long   
   > enough for a fire extinguisher to do its job.  Of course no distance   
   > or angle was quite the same, parallel, or perpendicular, so the sheet   
   > metal shall had to be custom bent to fit...   
   >   
   > P.P.S.  I found and bought a couple cheap used hiproof boxes to use to   
   > help figure out the geometry rather than figure it all out from   
   > scratch.  Hopefully the geometry scales well.  I can always resell the   
   > boxes. Maybe fill them up with garbage tools and make somebody think   
   > they got a deal.   
   >   
   >   
   >   
   >   
   Have you looked at piano hinge? Cut to the length you require, it can   
   come with or without hole for mounting.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)