Forums before death by AOL, social media and spammers... "We can't have nice things"
|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
|    Message 213,412 of 215,319    |
|    Bob La Londe to Jim Wilkins    |
|    Re: Hinge Rivets    |
|    18 Jun 24 10:43:21    |
      From: none@none.com99              On 6/17/2024 8:02 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:       > "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4qjar$104h5$1@dont-email.me...       >       > On 6/17/2024 4:49 PM, David Billington wrote:       >       >> Have you looked at piano hinge? Cut to the length you require, it can       >> come with or without hole for mounting.       >>       >       > Yeah I was thinking piano hinge or whatever equivalent I have laying       > around left over from repairing boat compartment doors for the roof/lid       > hinges. What I was more thinking about was the pivot points for the       > connecting links between the trays.       > Bob La Londe       >       > ----------------------------------       >       > The hardest part of my suggestion may be finding short enough screws.       > The brass tubing "shoulders" could be parted off quickly with a rod or       > drill bit inside to retain them and quick length setting with a ruler,       > as they can be a bit too long. Another possibility is undercutting the       > head, there's more than enough metal on a Phillips pan head to turn a       > step for sheetmetal. All the common number-size machine screws except #8       > can be chucked in a fractional 5C collet. Even on my old leather-belt       > lathe with a handwheel collet closer, making one cut apiece in a dozen       > screws goes pretty quickly. Usually they are clearance cuts to eyeball       > accuracy.       >       > I modify small screws in batches so I made cup shaped screw holders       > tapped for the sizes I use, up to 1/2" which was for battery mounting       > posts for a Segway project. The walls of the cup are about the length of       > a 5C gripping surface and the back is bored out to cut off protruding       > threads short. I cut a shallow groove near each end to make removing       > them from the collet easier.       >       > The best one, which I've made only for 3/8-16 so far, was tapped full       > length, grooved on both ends for the O rings that keep it together, then       > sawed lengthwise in thirds to align with 5C slots or pairs of jaws on       > the 6-jaw. It grabs the whole thread, not just the crest like a collet       > which is less secure.              Shoulder bolts are certainly an option. I was hoping somebody here had       experience with hinge rivets (not riveted hinges) so I could determine       if it was something I wanted to mess with. I'll probably only ever make       one tool box like this. An extra half hour or so probably doesn't       matter for just one, but the knowledge, tools, and skills may be useful       for other things.                     --       Bob La Londe       CNC Molds N Stuff                     --       This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.       www.avg.com              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
(c) 1994, bbs@darkrealms.ca