From: Snag_one@msn.com   
      
   On 6/19/2024 12:02 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   > On 6/18/2024 5:32 PM, Snag wrote:   
   >> On 6/18/2024 5:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   >>> On 6/18/2024 1:35 PM, Snag wrote:   
   >>>> On 6/18/2024 2:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   >>>>> On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:   
   >>>>>> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning   
   >>>>>> supplies,   
   >>>>>> and parts.  It will clean out several drawers and a couple square   
   >>>>>> feet   
   >>>>>> of surface on my front office work bench.  I may put some reloading   
   >>>>>> supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are   
   >>>>>> deep enough.  Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file   
   >>>>>> room,   
   >>>>>> and get a proper work bench built in that room.   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> Bob La Londe   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> ---------------------------   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>> Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70   
   >>>>>> Sharps or original Trapdoor?   
   >>>>>>   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up   
   >>>>> some loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your   
   >>>>> own copy than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>   
   >>>>    Hodgdons has a BP loading chart on their website . I don't know   
   >>>> if it covers BP metallic cartridges though . I was looking for load   
   >>>> data for 1860 Remington reproduction cap-n-ball revolvers .   
   >>>   
   >>>   
   >>> The Lyman book shows 44 revolver from 20-35gr with round ball, and   
   >>> from 20-30 with conical slugs.  1860 Remington army is typically a 44   
   >>> cal, and you shave .451 bullets into it.   
   >>>   
   >>> If you are target shooting short to medium range I'd start at 20 if   
   >>> your lever arm will push them in deep enough.  Less powder means less   
   >>> fouling, although with BP that may be a distinction without a   
   >>> difference.   
   >>>   
   >>>   
   >>   One's a .36 Navy , the other is a .44 Army . Both were built from   
   >> kits , the .36 by me and the .44 by my father . It's been a long time   
   >> since these have been fired , but I seem to recall filling the   
   >> chambers level full and pressing a ball in flush - or a bit below . I   
   >> need to replace the hand on the .36 , I damaged it when I built it and   
   >> it's never been quite right . Got a new hand , just haven't taken time   
   >> to fit it .   
   >   
   > I did that the last time I shot C&B revolvers, and I recall the fouling   
   > was pretty horrible.  That was using Goex, but the first thing the BP   
   > revolver groups said was too much powder.  The second was Goex produces   
   > a lot of fouling.   
   >   
   >   
      
      I downloaded the Hodgdens BP data , I think I'll start with around 25   
   gr for the .36 and 30 for the .44 . I'll start with the Pyrodex P , then   
   try the 777 FFF .   
      A question since you have gunsmithing experience . This .36 Navy   
   revolver has always shot about the width of the front sight to the left   
   . The octagonal barrel is not clocked precisely to the frame , if I can   
   rotate the barrel just enough to bring it into alignment it will also   
   correct the windage . How big a deal is this to do ? One thing - the   
   finish on this revolver (and my CVA .50 Plains Rifle) is straight out of   
   the Browning Arms tanks in SLC , courtesy of my friend since childhood ,   
   The MudShark . Muddy was killed in a motorcycle accident a few years ago   
   and I'd rather leave it the way it is rather than risk damage to the   
   finish .   
   --   
   Snag   
     It's great to be straight !   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)