From: Snag_one@msn.com   
      
   On 6/19/2024 6:30 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   > On 6/19/2024 3:24 PM, Snag wrote:   
   >   
   >>    A question since you have gunsmithing experience . This .36 Navy   
   >> revolver has always shot about the width of the front sight to the   
   >> left . The octagonal barrel is not clocked precisely to the frame , if   
   >> I can rotate the barrel just enough to bring it into alignment it will   
   >> also correct the windage . How big a deal is this to do ? One thing -   
   >> the finish on this revolver (and my CVA .50 Plains Rifle) is straight   
   >> out of the Browning Arms tanks in SLC , courtesy of my friend since   
   >> childhood , The MudShark . Muddy was killed in a motorcycle accident a   
   >> few years ago and I'd rather leave it the way it is rather than risk   
   >> damage to the finish .   
   >   
   > First off.  I hack at my own stuff more so than I am any kind of   
   > gunsmith or have any real gunsmithing experience.  Mostly I make parts   
   > and I replace parts.   
   >   
   > There is a lot to unpack in that question.  Exactly how do you plan to   
   > twist it all?   
   >   
   > If I recall in the old CVA imported kit guns (I built a .36 Navy when I   
   > was a kid) there are pins in the front of the frame that align with   
   > holes in the barrel assembly.  While not a wide stance it is a 3 point   
   > alignment with the cylinder pin.   
      
      This one was built from a Navy Arms kit , around 1975 or 76 . The   
   barrel is threaded into the frame or I wouldn't be asking ... the barrel   
   is not quite tightened to the point that the vertical flats are parallel   
   to the vertical sides of the frame .   
      
      
   >   
   > I suppose if you can twist that assembly you will be changing the   
   > position of the front site in relation to the rear site.  In that   
   > respect its no different than adjusting adjustable sights.  Well other   
   > than being harder and less predictable since you will be moving both the   
   > sight and the bore.   
   >   
   > The first thing I would do is check the alignment of everything.   
   > Just look everything over and make sure everything looks straight and   
   > even.  If anything is out find out why and see if you can fix that.   
   >   
   > Then took a look down the bore and see if your timing is right.  That   
   > might be hard to see, so if you have access to a bore scope you might   
   > pull a nipple, and look in from the back with the hammer in full cock or   
   > removed.  If not you can try to "feel" it with a stiff wire hook tool   
   > from the front   
      
      
      The timing is dead on . The bolt locks up just as the sear engages   
   the hammer . It's never shaved lead .   
      
      
   >   
   > These kit guns vary from one series and maker to the next.  If its got a   
   > blade front it might be just as easy to bend the front blade that much.   
   > Or maybe you can work the hammer notch over... which would require   
   > re-bluing.   
      
      Repairing this finish is not an option - I forgot to say that it's   
   browned . The 3 mementos I have of one of the best friends I ever had   
   are the 2 BP arms he had browned for me when he worked at Browning Arms   
   and a Buck 110 sheath he gave me because his dog chewed mine up in 1994   
   when my brother (the dead one , not the tranny) had a massive heart   
   attack .   
      
   >   
   > Often its about what you are willing to accept to get what you want.   
   >   
   > Recently I repainted the sight holes on a Norinco 1911A1 for the owner.   
   > Norincos are somewhat collectable since their import ban in the early   
   > 90s when they were accused of selling rocket launchers to LA gangs   
   > (probably was made up for political expedience). I didn't want to   
   > refinish the gun, so after spending a lot of time cleaning out the old   
   > paint i polished on the back flat of the sights, and then reblued those   
   > surfaces only before putting new nail polish in the holes.  The owner is   
   > quite happy.  I told him I had to reblue it and he cringed, but after   
   > looking it over he asked... "Where?"  That's what I was going for.   
   >   
   > Yeah, soft jaws are really handy if you need to reef on something.   
   > Leather padded plywood jaws are one of my favorites.  Prismatic jaws are   
   > handy for somethings too, but simple leather padded wood works for   
   > 90-99% of the things you are likely to need to reef on.   
   >   
   > This is all just my opinion based on my thoughts and my experiences, and   
   > as Paul Harrell would say I have no illusions that my thoughts are   
   > housed in a mind of greatness.   LOL   
   >   
   > Paul is a fun, entertaining, and educational GunTuber who unfortunately   
   > is dying cancer.  There was a big push to get his channel up to over a   
   > million subscribers before he died.  Its over a million subscribers.   
   >   
   > If you want to see some great restoration and repair videos check out   
   > Mark Novak.  He covers rust bluing, spring making, and a host of other   
   > interesting topics.   
   >   
   >   
      
      I was mostly looking for ideas on holding it - probably by the barrel   
   - while I used some kind of "wrench" - likely to be a chunk of local   
   hickory properly shaped for the task - to tighten the frame/barrel a few   
   degrees to bring the front blade to center over the barrel .   
   --   
   Snag   
     It's great to be straight !   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)