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|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
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|    Message 213,447 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to All    |
|    Re: gauge railway workshop to yard    |
|    23 Jun 24 19:20:38    |
   
   From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1zfrbqwjr.fsf@void.com...   
      
   Sorry if asked this already - if you wanted to lay line cheaply - you'd   
   go with flat-bar on its thin edge, welded to any steel you could find as   
   ties, set to gauge and with curvature, in-situ? Bend the more   
   "restricted" - by clearance to things around, etc.? - first, and use a   
   gauging guide to set the other rail relative to it and weld-off to the   
   ties ("sleepers" in UK-speak) ?   
   Not sure how going to get a welding machine (electric) powered-up down   
   the mine, though. No compressed-air-powered welding machine as I know   
   of... (?!).   
   (*   
   90 ;; Amps   
   20 ;; Volts   
   ) ;; 1800   
   With 2.5mm 7018 you'd need 1.8kW - call it 2kW.   
      
   I commented as a question - down a mine you wouldn't need expansion   
   joints due to the near constancy of temperature?   
   Something like 100m of track might benefit from being re-laid anew.   
      
   Regards,   
   Rich S   
      
   ----------------------------------   
   My sawmill track rails are 3" x 4.2 Lbs/ft channel iron, which bends   
   relatively easily in the weak direction without twisting like angle iron and   
   can be lagged or bolted down through the lower flange. I bought it as scrap   
   pallet rack, bandsawed off the end plates that had fastened it to the   
   columns, and reused them as splices. Two 8' sections bolted together might   
   support a centered one ton log, though the gantry track for that is double   
   4" channel. An upright strip alone may be forced to twist outward and buckle   
   between its supports, even if Ixx is adequate.   
      
   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_railway_track   
   A metal wear strip over hardwood might be the cheapest that will last in   
   light service, and historically appropriate. I think in terms of custom   
   hardwood shapes because I'm sawing oak into 6" x 6" beams or whatever I   
   want, weather permitting - right now there's a lightning and tornado watch.   
   Angle or tee iron can be bolted to sleepers in the mine to avoid welding and   
   ease repair or removal; my luck would be to find just what I originally   
   wanted right after completing the quickie version, which I then write off as   
   bait.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)   
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