From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   "Charlie+"  wrote in message   
   news:l8849jt0p8tlhlev3dq8htejufepuha0db@4ax.com...   
      
   Thanks for posting Feedback, always useful! Yes I would have used   
   pyrometer too.. I have my IR at 0.94e as default!  Glad you are sorted..   
   C+   
      
   ------------------------------------   
   Here is a take on paint vs the oxide layer:   
   https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/333823/does-the-   
   aint-colour-matter-on-a-heat-sink   
   "Do not paint heat sinks. The layer of paint will act as an insulator   
   between the metal and the air, reducing its ability to dissipate heat.   
      
   Anodizing a heat sink is less of an issue. The anodization layer is much   
   thinner than paint (a few micrometers in aluminum, for instance), so it   
   presents a much lower thermal resistance than paint would."   
      
   I use black tape to optically measure the temperature of my walls and window   
   film, to compare them to interior walls and search for correctable heat   
   loss. For electronics and motors the IR thermometer and imager show patterns   
   of temperature rising and stabilizing, relative but not actual values, I   
   trust only a thermocouple in a well for that. Usually temperature difference   
   or rate of change are all I need to know, since the temperature that will   
   cause damage is often uncertain.   
      
   If accurate results are important I record the thermocouple data with a   
   PC-connected TP4000ZC multimeter calibrated to melting ice and boiling   
   water. The output file can be changed to .csv and imported to a spreadsheet   
   to correct observed offsets. This is for retired hobby use, to approximate   
   the professional lab instruments I had used at work.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)