XPost: sci.engr.joining.welding   
   From: djb@invalid.com   
      
   On 23/07/2024 16:12, Snag wrote:   
   > On 7/23/2024 8:29 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:   
   >> "Snag"  wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$1@dont-email.me...   
   >>   
   >>    My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of   
   >> his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on   
   >> the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the   
   >> head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better   
   >> abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked   
   >> with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a   
   >> consideration . Replacement pins are available ...   
   >   
   >   I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns   
   > out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be   
   > tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call   
   > back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's   
   > going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8"   
   > in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking   
   > off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a   
   > depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but   
   > I want to check with him to be sure .   
      
   If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively   
   expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing   
   jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves   
   quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level.   
   It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile   
   considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's   
   beyond saving.   
      
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