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|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
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|    Message 213,648 of 215,319    |
|    Peter Fairbrother to Bob La Londe    |
|    Re: Those Cheap Diamond Inserts    |
|    20 Aug 24 17:40:13    |
      From: peter@tsto.co.uk              On 19/08/2024 19:21, Bob La Londe wrote:       > On 8/19/2024 11:15 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:       >> On 8/19/2024 4:47 AM, Snag wrote:              >>> I've been using a lot of carbide tooling on my 10" Logan since I       >>> built the QCTP ... but I'm not getting rid of the lantern toolpost       >>> and HSS stuff because thewe are just some things it works better on .       >>       >>       >> There is certainly something to be said for being able to freehand       >> grind a specialty HSS tool, but for the most part I just put them in       >> tool holders for my QCTP.       >       >       > I suppose a lantern tool post "might" be able to hold a smaller scrap of       > HSS, but to really get the most out of your HSS a tangential holder       > might be the way to go.                     I bought a couple dozen HSS blanks, 10x10x100mm, maybe 20 years ago, and       still have a few unused ones, and several with cutting ends which I       don't use which could be reground if needed. No need to fiddle about       with scraps of HSS, though I do have a few home-made toolholders, mostly       of the weird and wonderful kind, for them when needed.              For smaller machines I make my toolholders/toolposts, one for each tool,       from a 50x50x30mm [18] block of mild steel. I mill a ~14mm slot on one       edge, then drill and tap a couple of M5 or so holes into it to hold the       tool in place. Then I drill a hole for the toolpost stud.              Add a couple screws, put in place on the rest with the tool, then shim       to center and tighten. Then you can change tool-plus-toolpost just using       the toolpost handle, and it is a much firmer hold than any other       toolpost I have come across.                            Ketan (of Arceurotrade) once quite unwarrantedly called me a Hell's       Angel for the way I "brutalise" that minilathe (which is still running       well 20 years on, though it has had a bearing change. And a main spindle       change too, bent it somehow. Motor electronics replaced [47]. Hmm maybe       that comment wasn't so far off...              I don't do a lot of bigger stuff, but I do use harder-to-machine       materials like inconel, monel, stainless, copper, titanium, hastelloy       (ouch) etc.                            Also alumina and other ceramics - for which I use the nearly-cheapest       diamond tooling, like drills, hole saws, cutting disks, to get back a       little towards the title of this thread. Keep them wet, underwater if       possible, take your time, be firm but not hard, and they cut like a       knife through butter, albeit a lot slower. Accurate on the second cut,       and the finish is lovely.              I have also used these on hastelloy, which I couldn't get to cut nicely       even with CBN inserts. A dremel in the toolpost is handy. Cheap diamond       tools are exactly that, cheap. They don't last that long, perhaps less       on steel [99], but if the alternative is waaay expensive or unavailable ..              I never use so-called machinable ceramics, far too expensive for zero       gain. If machining ceramics, or using diamond tooling, don't forget to       cover all slides and clean the machine immediately, as the dust will       kill accuracy.                     Peter Fairbrother              Chester minilathe       2x Myford ML10       Myford ML3 extra looong bed       Boxford AUD       home-made CNC lathe       7 BCAs, one CNC'd       Seig X3 mill                                   [19] 25mm sometimes, but 30mm is better, sometimes 25mm isn't enough.              [49] to repair the electronics on a single=phase brushed DC minilathe or       minimill motor, don't bother with the kblc board if fitted, it is a POS.       Chuck it. A cheap chinese 180V DC controller from Ebay will do the job,       and if it breaks throw it away and buy another. I was doubtful and       bought a spare, still have it about 15 years later.                     [99] the diamonds come off before they dissolve in the steel. If you are       using the expensive brazed ones it might be a problem              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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