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|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
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|    Message 213,704 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to Bob La Londe    |
|    Re: Drilling chainsaw bar    |
|    13 Sep 24 13:03:22    |
   
   From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   "Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:vbfi68$tpko$1@dont-email.me...   
      
   On Fri, 6 Sep 2024 10:10:59 -0700   
   Bob La Londe wrote:   
      
   >On 9/6/2024 4:06 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:   
   >> I'd like to attach a 20" Husqvarna bar to an Alaskan mill with flush   
   >> flathead screws ...   
      
   Maybe just knock out 1 or 2 rivets and use those holes?   
   -----------------------------------   
   That's a good idea to avoid drilling the hardened center of the bar tip   
   sprocket bearing. The rivets on mine are smaller than I want the screw(s) to   
   be so I tried a 1/8" Harbor Freight glass drill reground nearly to a split   
   point, which did the job. A 3/16" glass drill opened the hole for a #10   
   screw (~5mm) which is close to the 6mm provided to screw the bar to the   
   lower clamp.   
      
   Since I want to use it to cut off a slab part way down the rounded edge of   
   logs the clearance needs to be greater on the bottom side and the lower bar   
   clamp would be in the way. I cut off only enough to fit the log between the   
   uprights of the sawmill carriage.   
      
   The clearance is 22". If I'd made it 24" I could have sold a carpenter   
   friend a custom solid oak bar top blank for around $1000. His customer   
   demanded just a little more length and width than my saw's capacity.   
      
   I turn these logs to cut another side by hanging their ends from loops of   
   rope run through snatch block winch recovery pulleys. A Peavey hook lever is   
   enough to turn a 2000 Lb log.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)   
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