From: clare@snyder.on.ca   
      
   On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 22:17:18 -0400, Clare Snyder    
   wrote:   
      
   >On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag  wrote:   
   >   
   >>On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:   
   >>> On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag  wrote:   
   >>>   
   >>>> On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   >>>>> On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:   
   >>>>>>     I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place   
   >>>>>> before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've   
   >>>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .   
   >>>>>>     I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was   
   >>>>>> hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks   
   >>>>>> promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to   
   >>>>>> replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a   
   >>>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make   
   >>>>>> things a bit more lively too .   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking   
   >>>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which   
   >>>>> performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.   
   >>>>> The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip.  I can't recall if it was rear only or   
   >>>>> front and rear.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking   
   >>>>> The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't   
   >>>>> speak to the slippery stuff.  I try to avoid that at all cost.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but   
   >>>>> its the real deal for street racing.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>> FYI:  I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to   
   >>>>> around 401.  Not today though.  Looking for gobs of mid range for towing   
   >>>>> torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine   
   >>>>> with a high lift cam.  I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep.  Now I only   
   >>>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle.  I feel naked without a   
   >>>>> backup... er tow vehicle that is.   
   >>>>>   
   >>>>   
   >>>>    I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted   
   >>>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems   
   >>>> to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves   
   >>>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is   
   >>>> torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some   
   >>>> testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution   
   >>>> controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas   
   >>>> mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual   
   >>>> workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .   
   >>>   Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be   
   >>> warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other   
   >>> input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also   
   >>> prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).   
   >>> Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually   
   >>> works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing   
   >>> with simple relay logic - the  speed control is the most complicated.   
   >>> An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually   
   >>> costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to   
   >>> wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and   
   >>> the basic programming involved.   
   >>>   
   >>   
   >>   Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it   
   >>will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new   
   >>when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to   
   >>function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup   
   >>is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by   
   >>engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do   
   >>know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was   
   >>rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got   
   >>lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the   
   >>trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .   
   > If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold   
   >and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -   
   >(Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but   
   >even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe   
   >they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by   
   >governor pressure.  The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading   
   >VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as   
   >well as transparent engagement and cold operation.   
    Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which   
   will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD   
   prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some   
   don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to   
   drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,   
   others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear   
   pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk   
   cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)   
      
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