From: Snag_one@msn.com
On 10/27/2024 6:30 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 22:17:18 -0400, Clare Snyder
> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 26 Oct 2024 14:27:15 -0500, Snag wrote:
>>
>>> On 10/25/2024 4:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>>> On Thu, 24 Oct 2024 17:15:56 -0500, Snag wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 10/24/2024 3:45 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>>>> On 10/21/2024 3:29 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>>>>> I picked up the truck axle today ... Got it bolted into place
>>>>>>> before my back started complaining . It has a right to complain , I've
>>>>>>> abused it the last few days harvesting firewood .
>>>>>>> I'm eagerly anticipating getting this project finished , I was
>>>>>>> hoping to have the truck ready by next weekend for Beanfest . Looks
>>>>>>> promising so far , I've got all the new parts for what I want to
>>>>>>> replace . This is going to be interesting , my first experience with a
>>>>>>> limited slip diff . Dropping from 2.73:1 to 3.42's is going to make
>>>>>>> things a bit more lively too .
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I was going to write up some of my comments on limited slip and locking
>>>>>> differentials, because I have had both, but the experience and which
>>>>>> performed exactly how kind of runs together in my memory.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The 03 Silverado 2500 (2wd) had auto locking rear.
>>>>>> The '17 Jeep JK had limited slip. I can't recall if it was rear only
or
>>>>>> front and rear.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The 07 Silverado had rear autolocking
>>>>>> The 24 F250 has rear electric locking.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have felt the affects and it definitely helps in the soft stuff. Can't
>>>>>> speak to the slippery stuff. I try to avoid that at all cost.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Not sure exactly how posi differs from limited slip or auto locking, but
>>>>>> its the real deal for street racing.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> FYI: I am thinking about building a stroked 351 and pushing it out to
>>>>>> around 401. Not today though. Looking for gobs of mid range for
towing
>>>>>> torque with a long duration cam rather than a high reving high HP engine
>>>>>> with a high lift cam. I sold my 07 Silverado and my Jeep. Now I only
>>>>>> have the new 24 Ford for a tow vehicle. I feel naked without a
>>>>>> backup... er tow vehicle that is.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I got the brakes on yesterday , adjusted them this morning and bolted
>>>>> the bed back on . Took it for a short ride after I finished , it seems
>>>>> to drive the same as before . Except when I punch it on gravel it leaves
>>>>> 2 gouges instead of one . The one drive train "problem" I have left is
>>>>> torque converter lockup . It ain't locking up . I'll need to do some
>>>>> testing , it's probably related to all of the original pollution
>>>>> controls going missing while the truck was out of service . My poor gas
>>>>> mileage probably has something to do with that . There are manual
>>>>> workarounds , but I really want this to be automatic .
>>>> Bad temp sensor or loww thermostat temp will do that - has to be
>>>> warmed up to "operating temperature" before it locks. VSS is the other
>>>> input - has to be over a certain speed. Brake light switch will also
>>>> prevent lockup (cannot lock if the switch says the brakes are on).
>>>> Before digging into ANY of that make sure the lockup function actually
>>>> works by installing a manual switch. You can automate the whole thing
>>>> with simple relay logic - the speed control is the most complicated.
>>>> An Arduino simplifies the whole thing significantly and actually
>>>> costsless than the 3 relays required for relay logic but you need to
>>>> wrap your head around the boolean logic required for the arduino - and
>>>> the basic programming involved.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Clare , I will probably hook up a switch to test function , but it
>>> will be temporary - and since the solenoid in the trans is brand new
>>> when rebuilt less than a thousand miles back I fully expect it to
>>> function properly . My understanding from the manual is that the lockup
>>> is solely controlled by a vacuum/electric switch which is controlled by
>>> engine vacuum . There is no temp dependent switch in the circuit . I do
>>> know for a fact that the circuit was working before the trans was
>>> rebuilt (and a bunch of vacuum lines and emission control devices got
>>> lost) , the radio is on the same fuse and because the solenoid in the
>>> trans was shorted it would blow that fuse every time it energized .
>> If it only has the vac switch it will be ugly when the engine is cold
>> and under braking. If it has a low gear lockout that all gets better -
>> (Some early TH350s with locking converter used the simple setup but
>> even THEY worked better cold with a thermo lockout - and I believe
>> they still had a speed lockout (built into the trans) operated by
>> governor pressure. The newer stuff does it all with the TCM reading
>> VSS and CTS as well as brake - allowing better compression braking as
>> well as transparent engagement and cold operation.
> Your transmission MAY also have a temperature switch inside which
> will prevent lockup on a colt transmission - and if defective COULD
> prevent lockup - perios. SOME 700R4 traanys ahve the switch, some
> don't. SOME have the 3/4 switch, some do not. Only way to know is to
> drop the pan. Also, some have one wire (self grounded) solenoid,
> others have 2 wire. One wire solenoid USUALLY has external 4th gear
> pressure switch and will require a relay to enable it or you risk
> cooking the switch (if it is not a heavy enough switch)
>
I'll check with the guy that built it this week . It's possible that
the rebuilt converter he supplied doesn't have lockup , I understand
that some don't but that may be an aftermarket thing .
--
Snag
Voting for Kamabla after Biden
is like changing your shirt because
you shit your pants .
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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