From: none@none.com99   
      
   On 11/14/2024 8:28 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote:   
   > On Wed, 13 Nov 2024 20:08:29 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"   
   >  wrote:   
   >   
   >> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vh3cb6$2ebtd$1@dont-email.me...   
   >>   
   >> Is there a way to put a marlin spike loop mid span in a section of   
   >> twisted rope without tying a knot in it?   
   >>   
   >> Back in the winter of 1980/81 I took a small craft and seamanship course   
   >>from the USCGA (D-9) with my Uncle Paul.  I learned how to back splice,   
   >> straight splice, and how to loop splice the ends of a rope, but I'd like   
   >> to make a tow harness for a boat that centers the load on both rear tie   
   >> down rings.  Ideally with a float before the loop, and the splice   
   >> extending further than the length of the float.  All I've ever used is   
   >> loop splices in the real world, but I could figure out the others quick   
   >> enough if I had to.   
   >>   
   >> The only thing I can think if is to make two loops through the float   
   >> with two different pieces of rope.   
   >>   
   >> I'd like to be able to quickly clip each end on to one of the tie down   
   >> rings on a small (relatively) craft and toss the float straight off the   
   >> back for a tow line to clip onto.  This is not intended for skiing.  Its   
   >> intended for towing a disable watercraft.  In some cases one much   
   >> heavier than the tow craft.   
   >>   
   >> For water skiing the ideal setup is to come off a pole well above the   
   >> deck with a single line on a mount that can swing easily.  I have one,   
   >> although I have never used it.  Never was able to ski more than a couple   
   >> hundred yards without turning myself into a torpedo.   
   >>   
   >> Untwisting and retwisting a long section of rope really is not an   
   >> answer.  I want to do this with nylon rope and it doesn't tend to   
   >> retwist very well.  The only reason a loop splice works with it is   
   >> because tensions clamps the strands to each other after its woven.   
   >> Well, and I also lightly melt the ends so they stick in place.   
   >   
   > Inline splicing of one line into the midspan of the other works well   
   > in nylon 3-strand laid rope, and the better the rope quality the   
   > better and easier splicing works.   
      
   I had not actually thought of using a second piece of rope to form a   
   loop in the main line.  I could even use that method to increase the   
   strength of the loop itself so if it did break it would more likely be   
   one of the lead lines.  I could make it a tight loop, or leave a short   
   regular twist for a float.  That is a good idea.  I had thought of using   
   two main lines for the harness or bridle tied together with "hardware"   
   but didn't really care for it.   
      
      
   >   
   > Typically, the splice length must be at least six weaves long,   
   > allowing all the stresses and strains to level out.   
   >   
   > Knots tend to weaken the lines.   
   >   
   > Look in the Ashley Book of Knots for the possibilities.   
   >   
   > .   
   >   
   >   
   >> The only other thing I can think if is lashing (whipping?) with a light   
   >> cord instead of splicing.  I'm not sure I am a fan.   
   >>   
   >> Yeah I know how silly that all sounds.   
   >   
   > No way will lashing be strong enough or enduring.   
      
   Enduring no.  I have seen stuff lashed together and work, but the   
   lashing almost always shows signs of failure if it has been used very   
   many times.  Usually it loosens up and starts to separate eventually   
   leading to unwrapping.   
      
   >   
   > Joe   
      
      
   --   
   Bob La Londe   
   CNC Molds N Stuff   
      
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