From: Snag_one@msn.com   
      
   On 2/28/2025 4:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   > First off let me say I "can" gap weld steel.  I prefer a good fit-up,   
   > proper bevels, and most importantly, nobody inspecting my work, but...   
   >   
   > I've got a situation where I cut a part in two with a grinder and a zip   
   > disc to only use part of it, and now I've decided that was a mistake. Or   
   > rather the application has evolved to a point where the original part   
   > would be better.  I don't have to make it exactly like it was, but kinda   
   > sorta close maybe might be nice.   
   >   
   > If it was aluminum and I was in a similar situation I'd grab one of the   
   > piece of stainless bar stock I keep for aluminum backing and just do it.   
   >   I'd probably clamp it up, weld it up from one side, back grind it with   
   > a burr, and weld the other side.   
   >   
   > This is steel.  While its not any kind of acceptable practice if I tried   
   > the solution above it would weld right into the stainless steel backer.   
   > Is there any shade tree backing I could use beside buying an expensive   
   > piece of graphite?   
   >   
   > I know.  I know.  The true correct shade tree engineering method is to   
   > just gap weld it.  LOL.   
   >   
   >   
      
     A chunk of thick aluminum should work . Steel won't weld to it , and   
   it will chill your weld . Since you're going to gouge and weld the back   
   side too I don't think that would be a problem ... any chance you might   
   have a chunk of Al that would suit ?    
   --   
   Snag   
   We live in a time where intelligent people   
   are being silenced so that   
   stupid people won't be offended.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)