From: none@none.com99   
      
   On 2/28/2025 4:31 PM, Snag wrote:   
   > On 2/28/2025 4:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   >> First off let me say I "can" gap weld steel.  I prefer a good fit-up,   
   >> proper bevels, and most importantly, nobody inspecting my work, but...   
   >>   
   >> I've got a situation where I cut a part in two with a grinder and a   
   >> zip disc to only use part of it, and now I've decided that was a   
   >> mistake. Or rather the application has evolved to a point where the   
   >> original part would be better.  I don't have to make it exactly like   
   >> it was, but kinda sorta close maybe might be nice.   
   >>   
   >> If it was aluminum and I was in a similar situation I'd grab one of   
   >> the piece of stainless bar stock I keep for aluminum backing and just   
   >> do it.   I'd probably clamp it up, weld it up from one side, back   
   >> grind it with a burr, and weld the other side.   
   >>   
   >> This is steel.  While its not any kind of acceptable practice if I   
   >> tried the solution above it would weld right into the stainless steel   
   >> backer. Is there any shade tree backing I could use beside buying an   
   >> expensive piece of graphite?   
   >>   
   >> I know.  I know.  The true correct shade tree engineering method is to   
   >> just gap weld it.  LOL.   
   >>   
   >>   
   >   
   >   A chunk of thick aluminum should work . Steel won't weld to it , and   
   > it will chill your weld . Since you're going to gouge and weld the back   
   > side too I don't think that would be a problem ... any chance you might   
   > have a chunk of Al that would suit ?    
      
   I have piles of the stuff.     
      
      
   --   
   Bob La Londe   
   CNC Molds N Stuff   
      
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