From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   "Snag"  wrote in message news:vt7jam$2a1a9$1@dont-email.me...   
      
      My cordless are ALL DeWalt . Got a plastic tub full of 18v stuff at a   
   yard sale , all the batteries were junk . Neighbor gave me some more   
   including a recip and a circular saw , but no batteries . Got 2 3.6 A/Hr   
   Ni-MH batteries on eBay and I'm good to go for around the house . Shop   
   drill is a 20V also from a yard sale . Came with a charger and one good   
   battery ... so I bought 2 more bigger ones  .   
   Snag   
   ---------------------------------   
   When the NiCads for my 14.4V Dewalt DC730 drill died I bought aftermarket   
   NiMH batteries. The original charger appeared to be rated only for NiCads   
   and its peak charge voltage approached don't-go-there land for NiMH, so I   
   bought an inexpensive aftermarket charger for both types that stops short of   
   the red zone, at around 22V. The combo has been fine for my relatively light   
   use, if you consider deep 3/8" holes in steel "light". I use a corded Magnum   
   Holeshooter for larger holes.   
      
   I measured the voltage by tacking wires to the base of the battery socket   
   inside the charger. The third connection is a variable resistance   
   temperature sensor.   
      
   A meter that reads to 1 millivolt above 20V shows the small voltage drops as   
   each individual cell reaches full charge and shifts to generating oxygen,   
   but the charger seemed to end the charge based on total pack voltage which   
   isn't the fastest way. The sensor detects the temperature rise when the   
   generated oxygen recombines and heats the cell. I think it's a backup Stop   
   signal for a pack with a shorted cell that won't reach full voltage.   
      
   The meter is a UT61E that can graph its readings on a computer, so I could   
   see the drop after it happened instead of watching closely.   
      
   https://lygte-info.dk/info/batteryChargingNiMH%20UK.html   
   "-dv/dt" is Calculus for a voltage drop.   
      
   This drill has the automatic spindle lock that allows firmly tightening the   
   keyless chuck. A screw inside the chuck retains it. Another marked down   
   store-brand drill was missing its #12-24 left handed chuck retaining screw   
   which I made on the lathe because I can, dammit.   
   jsw   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)