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|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
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|    Message 214,236 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to All    |
|    Re: rod-mill project - "mains" electric     |
|    14 Apr 25 16:55:51    |
      From: muratlanne@gmail.com              "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1v7r6369f.fsf@void.com...              It would do me a lot of good to get this project done, so I am not       going to sweat this too much - in the absence of being shown the way,       I will likely get the single-phase 0.75kW motor, do the belts and see       this thing running a.s.a.p.       In a lifetime, sometimes it's better to get that next step done and       know all about what you'd do next when it comes around again.              Regards, Rich S       ---------------------------              I built and ran a 1/2 HP electric sawmill before building the 6.5 HP gas       one. Bandsaws that make a wide cut have a problem not seen as much with       narrower cuts, the teeth need a minimum pressure to cut into the wood and it       adds up with length until reaching the point where the pressure to make a       dulling blade cut forces its center back until the front edge loses tension       and deflects (buckles) up or down. I tried coarser, wider, thicker blades       and discovered that they cracked bending around the wheels. More blade       tension might have helped but the blade tensioner wasn't adequate for this       misuse.              I didn't expect those problems and spent a lot of effort understanding and       adjusting for them. It's a good example of the need for debugging a small       (less expensive) prototype before moving to the full sized machine. The 1/2       HP bandsaw is back in its original upright configuration.              https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?118177-Bandsaw-blade-fle       ing-while-resawing       " It takes a fair amount of development of personal skill to learn how to       get the best results from a bandsaw."              My windmill rock tumbler needed tweaking too.              Single to three phase converters were once a lively topic here.       https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/fitch-williams-       onverter-design-balancing-instructions.101882/       https://groups.io/g/felderownersgroup/attachment/105688/1/Conver       er%20Doc%20with%20Pictures.pdf              https://www.capacitorindustries.com/wp-content/uploads/Run-and-S       art-Capacitors.pdf?       "Capacitors with ratings above 70 microfarad (uF) are starting capacitors.       Run capacitors are designed for continuous duty, and are energized the       entire time the motor is running."              An oscilloscope and clamp-on AC ammeter are very helpful if not essential.       Standard practice with high voltage is to work with only one hand. I like to       see the power plug lying on the bench rather than depending on a switch.              There's a crude and simple way to use a three phase motor that I decided not       to post. Just hinting that it exists.              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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