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|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
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|    Message 214,260 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to Bob La Londe    |
|    Re: A big ol' chunk of delrin    |
|    20 Apr 25 20:51:53    |
      From: muratlanne@gmail.com              "Snag" wrote in message news:68053d6b$6$5278$882e4bbb@reader.netnews.com...              On 4/19/2025 11:41 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:       > On 4/18/2025 6:45 PM, Snag wrote:       >> Since no one currently has X axis leadscrew nuts available for my RF45       >> clone mill , I must make one . So I ordered a piece of acetal/ delrin .       >> I've been studying videos of heat forming a nut to your leadscrew, all       >> looks fairly easy . I'll use a piece probably about 2X2X3 for the nut . I       >> bought a chunk that turns out to be 2 1/2X3X12 ... just in case it takes       >> more than one attempt .       >       >       > Let us know how it goes. I first heard of heat forming Delrin nuts right       > here on this group years ago. For my application I went with a spring       > loaded anti backlash Delrin nut from DumpsterCNC back then instead. I       > don't think DumpsterCNC is still around.       >               This is interesting , your text did not show up in the post over on       e-s but it did here on blocknews ...               Now to the meat of the sammich . I have been out in the shop all       morning making a tap* to match - pretty closely - the leadscrew on the       mill . The plan as of right now is to tap the hole I have made in a       chunk of that delrin . I'm hoping for a tight fit so I can heat the       leadscrew to finish forming the threads without splitting the nut . If       it's loose I'll slice the nut in half and heat/clamp to finish forming       the threads . If it's too tight to thread on I can split one side to get       it on the leadscrew and heat form from there .        *I still have to form the flutes on that tap . I'm thinking a 1/2 or       3/8 ball end mill With the tap held in a 4 sided collet holder or maybe       do 6 flutes since this tap is just under an inch . I used a chunk of       1.25" rebar for the tap since it was the closest in size to the finished       product and I hate wasting material . I'm not planning on hardening it ,       this will likely be the only time it will ever be used .        I also have 9 inches of 2 1/2 inch square aluminum stock coming to       make a holder for the nut . Probably only use a couple of inches , but       hay , I'll have stock for other projects down the road .               shop break               Well , the tap idea isn't going to work , I guess I'll stop and       rethink my approach . But at least I was outta my wife's hair for the       whole morning !       --       Snag       --------------------------------       I did see Bob's post on E-S.              For a single use tap you could flute it with one corner of a square ended       endmill, perhaps one with dull corners that you beveled sharp again, using       your endmill fixture at the back relief instead of the cutting edge angle.       If a hard spot in the rebar dulls it you can regrind it the same way. It's       my go-to endmill for roughing steel of uncertain parentage and upbringing.              A tap drill size pilot plug on the tap may help keep it centered and       straight.              In aluminum at least unhardened steel dulls quickly.              I will soon try making a tool from a scrap of broken rock drill pipe, and       see how easy to saw and turn it is.              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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