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   rec.crafts.metalworking      Metal working and metallurgy      215,319 messages   

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   Message 214,268 of 215,319   
   Snag to Clare Snyder   
   Re: A big ol' chunk of delrin   
   21 Apr 25 13:44:28   
   
   From: Snag_one@msn.com   
      
   On 4/21/2025 10:19 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:   
   > On Sun, 20 Apr 2025 22:42:39 -0500, Snag  wrote:   
   >   
   >> On 4/20/2025 7:51 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:   
   >>> "Snag"  wrote in message   
   >>> news:68053d6b$6$5278$882e4bbb@reader.netnews.com...   
   >>>   
   >>> On 4/19/2025 11:41 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:   
   >>>> On 4/18/2025 6:45 PM, Snag wrote:   
   >>>>>     Since no one currently has X axis leadscrew nuts available for my   
   >>>>> RF45 clone mill , I must make one . So I ordered a piece of acetal/   
   >>>>> delrin . I've been studying videos of heat forming a nut to your   
   >>>>> leadscrew, all looks fairly easy . I'll use a piece probably about   
   >>>>> 2X2X3 for the nut . I bought a chunk that turns out to be 2 1/2X3X12   
   >>>>> ... just in case it takes more than one attempt .   
   >>>>   
   >>>>   
   >>>> Let us know how it goes.  I first heard of heat forming Delrin nuts   
   >>>> right here on this group years ago.  For my application I went with a   
   >>>> spring loaded anti backlash Delrin nut from DumpsterCNC back then   
   >>>> instead.  I don't think DumpsterCNC is still around.   
   >>>>   
   >>>   
   >>>     This is interesting , your text did not show up in the post over on   
   >>> e-s but it did here on blocknews ...   
   >>>   
   >>>     Now to the meat of the sammich . I have been out in the shop all   
   >>> morning making a tap* to match - pretty closely - the leadscrew on the   
   >>> mill . The plan as of right now is to tap the hole I have made in a   
   >>> chunk of that delrin . I'm hoping for a tight fit so I can heat the   
   >>> leadscrew to finish forming the threads without splitting the nut . If   
   >>> it's loose I'll slice the nut in half and heat/clamp to finish forming   
   >>> the threads . If it's too tight to thread on I can split one side to get   
   >>> it on the leadscrew and heat form from there .   
   >>>     *I still have to form the flutes on that tap . I'm thinking a 1/2 or   
   >>> 3/8 ball end mill With the tap held in a 4 sided collet holder or maybe   
   >>> do 6 flutes since this tap is just under an inch . I used a chunk of   
   >>> 1.25" rebar for the tap since it was the closest in size to the finished   
   >>> product and I hate wasting material . I'm not planning on hardening it ,   
   >>> this will likely be the only time it will ever be used .   
   >>>     I also have 9 inches of 2 1/2 inch square aluminum stock coming to   
   >>> make a holder for the nut . Probably only use a couple of inches , but   
   >>> hay , I'll have stock for other projects down the road .   
   >>>   
   >>>     shop break   
   >>>   
   >>>    Well , the tap idea isn't going to work , I guess I'll stop and   
   >>> rethink my approach . But at least I was outta my wife's hair for the   
   >>> whole morning !   
   >>   
   >> I did see Bob's post on E-S.   
   >>   
   >> For a single use tap you could flute it with one corner of a square   
   >> ended endmill, perhaps one with dull corners that you beveled sharp   
   >> again, using your endmill fixture at the back relief instead of the   
   >> cutting edge angle. If a hard spot in the rebar dulls it you can regrind   
   >> it the same way. It's my go-to endmill for roughing steel of uncertain   
   >> parentage and upbringing.   
   >>   
   >> A tap drill size pilot plug on the tap may help keep it centered and   
   >> straight.   
   >>   
   >> In aluminum at least unhardened steel dulls quickly.   
   >>   
   >> I will soon try making a tool from a scrap of broken rock drill pipe,   
   >> and see how easy to saw and turn it is.   
   >>   
   >> -----------------------   
   >>   
   >>   I'm thinking at this point that I might try threading the inside with   
   >> a boring bar and a cutter that is close but narrower than the groove   
   >> width of the thread . This will make it necessary to split the nut and   
   >> hot form the thread . My main concern about splitting the nut is whether   
   >> the halves will fuse together into a solid unit during the forming   
   >> process . I'm once more stepping off into unknown territory ... but you   
   >> know what they say "keeping learning will keep you young" .   
   > Don't be a wuss -chuck it in the 4 jaw and single point it. If you   
   > grind your tool right you won't even need to heat form it - - - -   
   >   
      
      The problem with that is that I'm not certain what the thread profile   
   is - probably acme but ... I was just thinking that I can make an   
   impression of the leadscrew , wax might work or clean the leadscrew well   
   and apply a release compound and mold one out of JB weld ... and use   
   that impression to grind a cutter . That piece of plastic is dialed in   
   on my 4 jaw , and ain't coming out just yet .   
   --   
   Snag   
   We live in a time where intelligent people   
   are being silenced so that   
   stupid people won't be offended.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)   

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