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|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,367 messages    |
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|    Message 214,297 of 215,367    |
|    Jim Wilkins to All    |
|    Re: Moving a 40ft High Cube - SHELVES    |
|    09 May 25 19:08:59    |
      From: muratlanne@gmail.com              "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vvllee$2vttp$2@dont-email.me...              I have built some very heavy duty shelving many times from 2x       construction lumber and plywood, but being joined with framing nails and       ring nails means its not easily reconfigurable. At one time I was       making so much of it I had two framing nailers so I could swap from       framing to sheeting without reloading my gun.              ----------------------------              I've been using Torx head structural screws from the big box stores to build       heavy shed shelving and attach 2x4 diagonal bracing to my timber framed       firewood sheds for two decades, and they've held the weight of a NH snow       load and me climbing the shelves, as their framing is full height 2x3s with       an open attic space above for skis etc. The screws drive like drywall       screws, and being hardened hold like lag screws, and they remove easily for       modifications. Their ceramic coating protects them from rusting pretty well.              The shelves are 2' deep to use plywood efficiently and because I can't reach       much further. That shed is 8' wide outside like a High Cube, and the       interior space between racks is narrow enough to climb using the uprights       and shelf edges, an arm and leg on each side. A temporary plywood table       bridging the racks supports whatever I'm storing or retrieving, high enough       to reach the attic. The floor aisle width is less because I can store       stacked paint cans, long handled garden tools and boxed equipment on the       sides.              The shelf racks stop short of the door to leave space for tall objects, an       8' and shorter stepladders and the gantry hoist track channels plus spares.       Their uprights are attached to the rafter ties at the top. This is a very       nice, light weight and stable stepladder:       https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Werner-8-ft-Aluminum-Step-Ladder-1       -ft-Reach-Height-with-250-lb-Load-Capacity-Type-I-Duty-Rating-368/100659876?              My idea for the roof has worked well. The roofing is corrugated steel on the       sunny side and clear corrugated polycarbonate for interior light on the       north. Every third 2' wide section is a removable hatch that rests on       cleats, so I can stand up through the openings and reach to the center of       each pair of panels to drive their screws, or remove and replace damaged       ones. The hatches slide under and catch on the ridge cap and latch with       screen door hooks at the lower end.       jsw              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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