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   rec.crafts.metalworking      Metal working and metallurgy      215,367 messages   

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   Message 214,297 of 215,367   
   Jim Wilkins to All   
   Re: Moving a 40ft High Cube - SHELVES   
   09 May 25 19:08:59   
   
   From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:vvllee$2vttp$2@dont-email.me...   
      
   I have built some very heavy duty shelving many times from 2x   
   construction lumber and plywood, but being joined with framing nails and   
   ring nails means its not easily reconfigurable.  At one time I was   
   making so much of it I had two framing nailers so I could swap from   
   framing to sheeting without reloading my gun.   
      
   ----------------------------   
      
   I've been using Torx head structural screws from the big box stores to build   
   heavy shed shelving and attach 2x4 diagonal bracing to my timber framed   
   firewood sheds for two decades, and they've held the weight of a NH snow   
   load and me climbing the shelves, as their framing is full height 2x3s with   
   an open attic space above for skis etc. The screws drive like drywall   
   screws, and being hardened hold like lag screws, and they remove easily for   
   modifications. Their ceramic coating protects them from rusting pretty well.   
      
   The shelves are 2' deep to use plywood efficiently and because I can't reach   
   much further. That shed is 8' wide outside like a High Cube, and the   
   interior space between racks is narrow enough to climb using the uprights   
   and shelf edges, an arm and leg on each side. A temporary plywood table   
   bridging the racks supports whatever I'm storing or retrieving, high enough   
   to reach the attic. The floor aisle width is less because I can store   
   stacked paint cans, long handled garden tools and boxed equipment on the   
   sides.   
      
   The shelf racks stop short of the door to leave space for tall objects, an   
   8' and shorter stepladders and the gantry hoist track channels plus spares.   
   Their uprights are attached to the rafter ties at the top. This is a very   
   nice, light weight and stable stepladder:   
   https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Werner-8-ft-Aluminum-Step-Ladder-1   
   -ft-Reach-Height-with-250-lb-Load-Capacity-Type-I-Duty-Rating-368/100659876?   
      
   My idea for the roof has worked well. The roofing is corrugated steel on the   
   sunny side and clear corrugated polycarbonate for interior light on the   
   north. Every third 2' wide section is a removable hatch that rests on   
   cleats, so I can stand up through the openings and reach to the center of   
   each pair of panels to drive their screws, or remove and replace damaged   
   ones. The hatches slide under and catch on the ridge cap and latch with   
   screen door hooks at the lower end.   
   jsw   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)   

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