Forums before death by AOL, social media and spammers... "We can't have nice things"
|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
|    Message 214,442 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to Jim Wilkins    |
|    Re: Stock Storage    |
|    10 Jun 25 19:43:47    |
      From: muratlanne@gmail.com              "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:1029tpe$1dr7m$1@dont-email.me...              On 6/9/2025 10:00 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:       > ...              I decided to throw money at the problem. Behind my shop is a 20x60       concrete slab. On the edge of the slab was is where I placed the 40'       high cube container leaving 12 feet between the container and the       building.              My future plan has been to place two 20ft continers that are current at       my parents house on the far end of the slab facing outwards (doors will       open over dirt), and one I already have (currently out front) against       the building parallel to the 40 footer. This leaves a 4 foot passage       (nominally) between the 40 foot containers and the other containers and       a 12 x 24 open area protected from casual view.              Its always been my plan to put a 12 x 20 shade structure for outdoor       work in that 12 x 24 space for blacksmithing, foundry work, etc. The       little bit of blacksmithing I do now is typically done just inside the       south door of the shop with the overhead door standing open. I set my       little blacksmith furnace on the welding table. The light is not ideal.        It makes it hard to see the color of the metal with the direct       sunlight coming in the door.              I had planned to add the shade structure after the containers were in       place, but I can add it first. I just need to be extra careful when       placing the parallel container so I do not damage the shade. After the       containers are in place I can move any racking I buy or build inside one       of the containers.              I threw money at it and ordered the shade this morning.       --       Bob La Londe       CNC Molds N Stuff              ----------------------------       You are better off than I am. I can write about only what I've done or seen.              My property is almost all sloping oak forest, nowhere but the front lawn is       safe for a forge fire's sparks unless it's raining or snowing. I finally       have the anvil, tongs, hammers, forge bowl and brake drum/rotor firepots,       cranked and electric blowers, leg vise and plenty of charcoal from the wood       stove and only need a place to set them up. Maybe the bowl (water heater       tank end bell) could straddle the wood stove with its top plate removed, if       I make an effective hood. The Champion blower catalog has examples. The       blacksmith shop where I took lessons now charges $375 for 6 evenings. The       nearby Maker Space hasn't set up an indoor place for their forge yet.              https://eadn-wc03-4736907.nxedge.io/cdn/wp-content/uploads/pdfca       alogs/Champion_Blower_Forge.pdf              Weygers' The Complete Modern Blacksmith is great for forging tools instead       of artwork, but socket handle chisels etc are so easy to acquire from flea       markets to not be worth the trouble. I finished getting my Al2O3, SiC and       diamond grinders in order and with them and the surface grinder can easily       restore a chipped wood chisel edge like new.              Then there's the matter of what besides art and fake antiques can be forged       more easily than welded and machined, or bought used. After taking the       smithing class I concluded not much.              https://starkvillecivilwararsenal.com/the-traveling-forge/              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
(c) 1994, bbs@darkrealms.ca