From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:103pkof$12a0h$1@dont-email.me...   
      
   Another trick if you are using HSS, or if you are very careful using   
   *carbide is to use a precision dowel pin, gage pin, shank of an end   
   mill, 123 block, gage block, etc.  Start with your cutter slightly less   
   than your precision dimension fromt he stock, and slowly move it until   
   your gage just slides between.  This is "maybe" more accurate than   
   paper, but I treat it the same since the preload of the lead screws is   
   in the opposite direction.   
      
   I prefer an edge finder, a tool height setter, and pre-measured tool   
   heights, but you never know what kind of situation you may find yourself   
   in.   
      
   * If using a sharp carbide cutter you have to take a lot of care to make   
   sure you do not chip a cutting edge using the slip gage method.   
   Bob La Londe   
   -----------------------------------   
      
   Good advice.   
      
   I use the items you mentioned and drill shanks as spacers to set the lathe   
   and mill stops for depth of cut when the tool contacts the original surface   
   if caliper jaws won't fit. Like hobby machines, my 1960's antiques don't   
   have DROs.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)