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|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
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|    Message 214,785 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to All    |
|    Re: Hello??    |
|    19 Sep 25 09:29:22    |
      From: muratlanne@gmail.com              "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1y0qan51h.fsf@void.com...              The essence is that anything I want to do I have to do it all myself       in-house.       I previously asked about "machine tools" and you were all absolutely       emphaticly "yes!".              The reconciliation in the mind is that the mind which sees the "useful       projects" and the way to do them has learned from doing and driving       before. I have to do that doing. That it is unlikely that group       projects on my aspirations can deliver. You always end up having to       accept a compromise which has even more consequences than you could       visualise departing from the plan you had - with huge time-consequences       and waste of energy "flogging dead horses" and that energy not put to "I       got the steel in; I welded in my outbuilding; I ...".       --------------------------              When designing and building industrial electronic test equipment I was at       the mercy of mechanical engineers and the machine shop for everything I       couldn't make with a file, drill press, sheet metal shear and brake.       Whatever I wanted had to be fully described and toleranced on a drawing,       they wouldn't tolerate cut-and-try. I can't blame them, degreed engineers       can be notoriously clueless outside their specialty, and sometimes at the       hands-on aspects within it.              As I didn't know machining at the time I couldn't distinguish the hard and       easy ways to do a job, for example I would round a corner to control 40       KiloVolt corona discharge by grinding and filing, the shop would order a       corner-rounding end mill in the size I specified. They knew nothing of       electrical problems so they would suggest the solutions they could do based       on how they chose to interpret my attempts to explain.              I found that a local school offered night classes in machine shop and jumped       on the chance to learn, as also with programming, welding and blacksmithing.       The student-abused machines were valuable to learn proper versus excessive       cutting feeds and speeds through experience as well as how to accommodate       the wear and damage to the old lathe, mill and surface grinder I bought.       Fortunately others made the more spectacular mistakes such as shattering a       surface grinding wheel, I only burned an endmill.              The buying approach I partly chose and partly lucked into was acquiring       machine tools sized above model steam engine building and below what's       practical for production, apparently a range meant for a model shop, tool       maker or inventor. Old American iron was available when I looked in the       1990's, for less than what new import machines of similar capacity and       weight (rigidity) cost. I probably could have done most of the same work on       new imports, perhaps an 8"~9" diameter lathe and square column mill drill. I       had to sadly pass on larger machines I didn't have room for, a Bridgeport       and Monarch. The surface grinder wasn't as necessary and the mill eliminates       the need for a bench sized drill press and the clearance space around that       it consumes.              My machines suffice for most of what I want to make because I know their       limits. I've learned enough to adequately specify the jobs I can't do and       send out to a larger shop. There have been a couple of them this summer, not       too expensive because I did the prep and fixturing. The DIY constructions       you've described are in the same range of size and power.              My most recent lathe job was a custom 5mm automotive screw of non-standard       length with a turned-down section on the shank to captivate it in the partly       tapped bushing on the distributor cap. I made it from stainless because the       original rusted, froze and broke. It's a small simple part, but essential       and unavailable for a 25 year old car, particularly in stainless. The mill       had drilled out the broken screw remains in the distributor casting       accurately and squarely enough to keep the drill bit from deflecting into       the softer aluminium.       jsw              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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