From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   "Leon Fisk"  wrote in message news:10ajpdn$ftpt$1@dont-email.me...   
      
   I knew better than to try an EZ-Out for a job like this but the bolt   
   had been moving a bit by wrench early on. I just didn't want to go get   
   a better suited wrench to tease it back and forth and broke it off   
   being too impatient...   
   Leon Fisk   
      
   -----------------------------------   
   I used to tear down and rebuild older motorcycles for education (not profit)   
   and EZ-Outs rarely worked for me on 6mm screws frozen into aluminum. Usually   
   a hammered impact driver got them out eventually, maybe the axial impacts   
   opposite the tightening direction cracked the corrosion locking the screw   
   thread to the aluminum.   
      
   I can't always tell if the bolt is starting to turn or to shear. Kroil in a   
   needle bottle is a definite help, not a guaranteed fix. I've had to use the   
   part that was attached as a guide to make a jig with matching holes that fit   
   their screws closely, with a drill bit guide sleeve at the broken screw   
   location. The distributor cap served to locate the broken screw under the   
   mill spindle with a center finder.   
      
   The current project is the wipers in the 1991 Ranger. Low and Intermittent   
   don't always work, High does. I replaced the multifunction switch on the   
   column which showed some suspiciously high resistance readings after 150,000   
   miles. At dawn when it was cold everything worked, at noon in the sun the   
   failure was back. Contact problem? The motor seems OK when powered directly   
   through its connector via 1/16" Molex pins. I'm checking things in the order   
   of their ease of access.   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)