Forums before death by AOL, social media and spammers... "We can't have nice things"
|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
|    Message 214,917 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to Jim Wilkins    |
|    Re: dripping lead pot and evaporust    |
|    26 Oct 25 19:15:14    |
      From: muratlanne@gmail.com              "Snag" wrote in message news:10dlugu$8b2f$1@dont-email.me...              On 10/26/2025 1:48 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:       > "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10dlq3u$6se4$1@dont-email.me...       > I'll have to go look, but I thought the stopper on the Lee bottom pour pt       > had a ball nose plunger and tapered cone nozzle.       > -----------------------------       >       > Will a chainsaw file fit through the hole?               The top half of the hole yes . The actual nozzle where the lead       comes out no . Won't quite pass a 6d box nail . Got a dandy new pin vise       and #60 and finer bits here somewhere ... somewhere I can't quite recall       . Some of the aspects of living a long time are        oh shit , I forgot what I was going to say .               Bob's right about the ball nose rod . I don't know yet about the       nozzle because of the rust . I did polish the rod tip earlier today to       make sure there are no pits . Right now the pot has about an inch of       Evap-O-Rust soaking . All I know for sure about the nozzle is that the       bottom has what looks like maybe a 90° included angle like maybe a       countersink . All my countersinks are too large diameter and have short       shafts .        I like Jim's d-bit idea , I have suitable stock but need to find the       angle . Maybe a dowel spun in the hole will grind to conformity ...       --       Snag        I appreciated foreign cultures more       when they stayed foreign ...              ------------------------------       I spent the day on rust projects, the second trying to remove 1991 Ranger       cabin trim screws that hold down the carpet edge, so I can check and spray       for rust under it. LPS-3 kept the screws intact and only moderately rusted       where they protrude below the floor behind the front tires, but not on top       where salty slush from my boots wicked into the carpet, froze the screw       heads and threads and corroded the aluminum trim strip. The self-drilling       screws are hard enough to dull an HSS bit in seconds and Vise-Grips just       slipped off the short threaded end below so I drilled the heads with a       masonry bit that still had to be reground once or twice for each screw.       Fortunately I recently acquired a 6" carbide grinder for which I had a       partly used diamond plate wheel. The no-name grinder is of unimpressive Enco       quality, good enough for a hobby shop.              At first the 1/8" masonry bit wouldn't cut, magnifier inspection showed that       the silver colored braze metal had flowed onto the carbide insert faces and       needed to be ground off with a Dremel to expose the hard edges.              Success with LPS-3 is the reason I didn't try Extend or other opaque       coatings that winter salty water might work its way under unobserved. I'm on       my second 5 gallon drum of it. It also protects galvanized steel roofing       pretty well, but apparently not aluminum.              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
(c) 1994, bbs@darkrealms.ca