From: muratlanne@gmail.com   
      
   BP wrote in message news:10e0chr$3tv3i$1@dont-email.me...   
      
   In this case the state of the gutter is quite fragile; I'm fairly sure   
   that any planing action will destroy it completely. If you think I'm   
   grasping at straws trying to save a bit of rusted-out gutter, you're   
   correct 8-), but I'm trying to learn something in the process.   
   ----------------------------   
      
   I learned long ago that trying to save thin rusted metal is futile and   
   counterproductive, so I grind the hole edges back to metal thick and strong   
   enough to hold fasteners or weld to with a Dremel. Then I know how big to   
   make the patch and where I can attach it.   
      
   I'm doing this right now on my '91 truck. Rust spread around the rubber plug   
   in a floor drain. So far I've ground the hole back to solid metal and traced   
   the smoother-edged opening onto thin cardboard, to make a practice patch   
   from cardboard or flashing that I can copy in thicker galvanized steel.   
      
   The floor was flat at the plug but rust ate back into the stiffening ribs   
   that the patch will have to be tightly fitted against to seal. That's not as   
   difficult as making a flush-welded patch disappear on a curved fender rim   
   that is exposed to view.   
      
   Most of the floor and underside of the cab still hasn't rusted. For New   
   England that's pretty good. LPS-3 helped underneath where the spray could   
   reach.   
      
   This is what the holes drained:   
   https://clearclad.com/products/what-is-e-coat/   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)