Forums before death by AOL, social media and spammers... "We can't have nice things"
|    rec.crafts.metalworking    |    Metal working and metallurgy    |    215,319 messages    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
|    Message 215,081 of 215,319    |
|    Jim Wilkins to All    |
|    Re: Grinding a Step Drill    |
|    15 Dec 25 19:10:07    |
      From: muratlanne@gmail.com              "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:10hq1qh$281ns$1@dont-email.me...              One thing I drill a lot are holes for hinge pins in molds. Typically I       drill D, then G, (F would work, but G allows for faster work and still       not bind) and then deburr the hole.              I was thinking if I grind a 5/16 or 3/8 with a .246 and then .260 step I       could drill and deburr every hole in one setup with out swapping drills.              I'm about to go swap out the diamond wheel (normally I make carbide       tools) for a white stone and give it a go.              Can you:              1. Tell me what I'm about to do wrong?       2. Off suggestions to make it work better next time?       3. Off some guidance other than ask a tool grinding shop to make some       for me?              I'll stick with stub length screw machine drills of course.              Bob La Londe       CNC Molds N Stuff              ---------------------------              I've made drills to cut various tapers and curves but never a step drill,       and they usually needed a pilot hole.              Supposedly dry diamond wheels won't burn on steel below a speed variously       given between 3500 and 4500 SFPM. Is your grinder 3 phase?              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
(c) 1994, bbs@darkrealms.ca