5929a219
From: greg@not.myaddress.com
In article
<12da87d1-f74f-40f2-9946-0b23d2a26796@p38g2000vbn.googlegroups.com>,
RichD wrote:
> Greg Wormald wrote:
> > > I saw some of those carbide V type sharpeners
> > > at a sports shop yesterday. There seems to
> > > be a wide price variation.
> > >
> > > Is there any real difference between these
> > > devices? Don't they all work the same way?
> >
> > The V-sticks do all work the same way--just that some do it better and
> > are made of better materials and last longer.
> >
> > They all have little or no angle adjustment and are hence basically
> > useless anyway, IMO.
>
> Your opinion is at variance with others here, who recommend
> this type for consistency, which is hard to obtain by hand.
>
> I don't understand the angle adjustment thing - why would
> you want to play with that? Isn't the idea to get as sharp
> as possible?
>
> --
> Rich
You certainly need to be consistent, unless you are going for the
sandpaper and mouse mat method (Google is your friend.).
The problems occur when the initial bevel on the blade differs from the
set of the V. If the V is too wide then you'll never be able to
re-create the initial sharpness, if the V is too narrow then you will
spend ages at grinding the shoulders of the bevel without ever touching
the edge.
Narrow bevels give much sharper edges, but they are more fragile. Most
experienced users match the edge to the purpose.
I know that lots of people like the V-sticks. Either a guided rod system
(Lansky, DMT) or paper wheels gives much more flexibility. For me, I put
the basic bevel on with a DMT diamond system and then polish to a mirror
finish edge with a paper wheel and some polishing paste.
Note--I am very fussy. If you are going to be happy with a basic edge
then the guided rod system alone will suffice. The paper wheels take
some practice to use correctly because while powered, they are usually
used "freehand".
Greg
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