51fdda81
From: greg@not.myaddress.com
In article
<26a445f8-cde3-4fc9-91a5-de09dfc23c92@fu15g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>,
RichD wrote:
> On Jan 15, 8:46 am, "Lachlan - KotU" wrote:
> > ?
> >
> > "RichD" wrote in message
> >
> > news:0b6cd9a0-8e9f-4170-b61a-166207dc04a9@q18g2000vbk.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > I saw some of those carbide V type sharpeners
> > at a sports shop yesterday. There seems to
> > be a wide price variation.
> >
> > Is there any real difference between these
> > devices? Don't they all work the same way?
> >
> > I've got loads of the "V" type sharpeners, carbide, ceramic,
> > diamond and while they give a useable edge, I much
> > prefer using either the Gatco kit or just bare diamond
> > stones then finishing with an arkansas stone or a waterstone.
>
> I have a diamond stone, but can't get consistent
> performance. What is the purpose of the second stone?
>
> > The only V sharpener I've managed to get a shaving sharp
> > edge from is the Boker Vulkanus, but it's a wee bit
> > more expensive than the pocket ones and a good bit bulker. It's
> > also pretty hungry with regards to removing metal from the blade.
> >
> > http://www.osograndeknives.com/boker/boker_-_vulkanus_hs002,_black_ab...
>
> Seems to be sold out.
>
> --
> Rich
If you are sharpening "from scratch" you will need at least 3 different
grits. Coarse to do the initial bevel, which may require the removal of
a reasonable amount of steel; a medium, to smooth and take out the rough
gouges from the coarse grit; and a fine to put on the micro-tooth edge.
The final steps to a smooth, mirror finish are optional. These require
either a strop or a paper wheel with polishing paste.
Greg
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)
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