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|    Message 8,008 of 8,070    |
|    Jo Wolf to All    |
|    Re: shaping progressions -very long    |
|    15 Aug 11 15:17:13    |
      From: jo-wolf@webtv.net              Drop in to rec.pets.dogs.behavior.              Before you can begin to shape, you have to take the "exercise" apart       into it's smallest parts.       Then you teach each part seperately, and put them together, adding one       piece at a time. Is that your understanding of "shaping"?              Let's look at the simplest basic exercise. Sit. Are you going to use a       vocal command? Hand signal? How does the dog know when it may get up?       Vocal command? Hand signal? What will you do when the dog fails at any       part of the process?              For starters, Sit means to assume that position and remain there until       told to do something else. It does not just mean "touch fanny to       floor". It means Plant fanny on floor.              So I start by building muscle memory for the position. (yes, I know that       puppies sit all by themselves.... stay with me here....) Pup is on       collar and leash. NOTE: YOU WILL NEVER GIVE A COMMAND MORE THAN ONE       TIME! I lure the pup into a sit by moving a food lure (no bigger than a       Pea) past the nose, over the top of the head toward the tail (no more       than a few inches above the top of the head). Nose goes up to follow       treat, rump goes down. Click, treat, verbal praise. This is repeated a       number of times. Now, I do the same thing with the treat, and as rump       hits floor, I say "sit". Click, treat, verbal praise. Repeat several       times. Next, I do the same thing with the treat, and as the pup's body       is moving toward a sit, I give the command. Click, treat, verbal       praise. The next phase is giving the command as the hand holding the       treat begins to move. Then the final phase for the action part is       holding the treat in an unmoving hand, and giving the command.              So.... in theory, the pup now knows how to get into the sitting position       on command. But what will you do if the pup fails to sit? Why not?       Was it too far away for you to enforce the command? You goofed. Was it       not paying attention to you? You goofed. Did you do something       incorrectly? You goofed. YOU WILL NOT REPEAT THE COMMAND. But you have       to do something quickly. For the first day, you back up to the       beginning. After that, you immediately help the puppy assume the       position in a non-threatening way. Don't stand there and wait to see if       you get results.              I use a blend of training methods, not just clicker and a lure. I       simply reach down with my non-treat hand and gently squeaze in the pup's       waist.... which causes the knees to collapse, and he's sitting. Voi la!       No pain, no fear. But when I have to help, no click, no treat, just a       subdued bit of verbal praise. NEVER push down on the dog's rear....       he's likely to lock his knees. Sometimes a light finger tap on the rear       works, though.              So... now he assumes the position on command and you know several ways       of getting him there. You already know that a baby puppy has the       attention span of a gnat, but you don't want him to get up before you       tell him it permissible. Be prepared to step AWAY from the direction       the pup is looking, so he has to get up and actively turn toward you.       Give command, pup's rump hits floor, you count to one, tell him Okay! in       a gleeful tone AS you move. He pops up, (click) faces you. Hold treat       down against your leg and he gets it only when he comes right up there       to get it.... with verbal praise.              Time is increased Slowly. The word "stay" ain't Even in sight yet. Be       prepared to step into the pup's front if he starts to get up, and tug       Gently straight up on the leash for a millisecond. If he Gets up, help       him back into position as above, release with "okay" after a shorter       time.              Once pup is up to 5 or more seconds of reliably sitting, you can start       to "proof" that sit. Holding leash paralell to the floor out to the       Side of the pup, put a couple of seconds of LIGHT steady finger pressure       on the collar, relax it, move it to the other side, repeat. Release the       pup, praise, treat.              Slowly increase lengths of the sit, but do not do so in a straight       sequence of numbers... vary from 2 seconds to one to five.... etc. Do       not expect the pup to stay for much more that 5-20 seconds in the Quiet       house. Start to phase out the use of the clicker, keeping verbal praise       and treat. Then phase out the treat. Add distractions.... a toy       dropped from your hand nearby, someone else walking by if available.              Now you take your act outside the house to a quiet location, then a       location with more going on. Ask someone to talk to the pup (not using       it's name) and try to coax it away. Be prepared to correct the pup back       into position about 3-4 times. This is normal.              Remember, sit means sit and don't get up or lie down until released from       that position by a new action command (let's go and walk off) or "okay",       which means, kinda, "at ease and stand by". Hand signals are taught       seperately, by the way.... because while you're dealing with leash,       clicker and treat, you run out of hands, but in the same sort of       sequence.              I STRONGLY recommend a good puppy kindergarden class for baby pups under       4 months of age at the start. You will learn MUCH about puppy growth and       development, a little about how to teach, some socialization, how to       survive the puppy crazies and behavior phases. EVEN MORE STRONGLY, I       recommend a good basic obedience class (NOT at a chain pet store) for       pups from 4 months and to adult years. Ask the front desk folks at vet       clinics which obedience classes they recommend.... go watch. Pick one       and sign up. Every one will be different! You will have a skilled,       experienced coach to show you the ropes, individualized to your pupster.       You will get where you want to go MUCH faster, without having to back up       and reteach something. New classes will be starting in September. I       could have shown you and walked you through this whole process in 10       minutes, and you'd have understood it better. And this is a simple       exercise to shape.              Jo              --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
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