From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com   
      
   In article <4bf1eceb$0$17591$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au>, "Mr.T"    
   wrote:   
   >   
   >"Peter Larsen"  wrote in message   
   >news:4bf100b3$0$56790$edfadb0f@dtext02.news.tele.dk...   
   >> David Nebenzahl wrote:   
   >>   
   >> >> Why would you make an effort to find a lower rated part unless the   
   >> >> 10W ones wont fit?   
   >>   
   >> > He thinks they work like fuses.   
   >>   
   >> No David, it failed because it actually acted like a fuse. And it is   
   >cheaper   
   >> that the resistor in series with the loudspeaker unit should fail and   
   >> thereby protect the loudspeaker unit than vice versa.   
   >   
   >Sure, but I'd call that extremely lucky. A cheap polyswitch would do a far   
   >better job at protecting the driver.   
   >   
   >MrT.   
      
   We have no idea of what the speaker did without looking and testing all   
   components.   
   I don't think the OP will do this, and he will likely still have problems.   
      
   When its all said and done, I myself would listen to   
   the pair with pink noise.   
      
   I worked a little with poly switches. You can get both negative and positive   
   devices.   
   It critical to know the the trip current of the device and also the exact   
   Z of the drivers. They are tricky, are not foolproof, and can also interefere   
   the   
   performance.   
      
   I have seen sand power resistors get awfull looking yet still work.   
   I would rather use fire proof resistors at times than carbon or film resistors,   
   which thae later seem to be in abundance in my parts bin.   
      
   greg   
      
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