Forums before death by AOL, social media and spammers... "We can't have nice things"
|    rec.audio.tubes    |    Tube-based amplifiers... that go to 11    |    52,877 messages    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
|    Message 52,527 of 52,877    |
|    Peter Wieck to Jim Worthington    |
|    Re: old tube phonograph questions    |
|    20 Oct 16 07:11:21    |
      From: pfjw@aol.com              On Wednesday, October 19, 2016 at 5:43:10 PM UTC-4, Jim Worthington wrote:              Please note the interpolations.               > To start, I'm replacing all of the paper electrolytic and non-electrolytic       paper capacitors in the amplifier and will go from there. I checked the       tubes. They're all good, but the 12AX7s are a little low on emission. The       power cord is frayed. I'm        going to replace this with a 3-wire power cord.               Before you do this, make sure that the chassis is actually fully isolated - no       fault in the transformer and that this is not a transformerless design.       Unlikely, but with this sort of thing, adding a 3-wire cord can sometimes have       untoward results. If        there are line-bypass caps in place, be even more careful, and replace them       with properly rated (X or Y) type caps. And check for hum loops after       installation. Unlikely, but worth attention.               > The electrolytic capacitors in the crossover network will probably have to       be replaced as well. I'm concerned that Polarized electrolytic capacitors       were used in the original design instead of non-polarized capacitors. This is       not good design        practice. Reverse voltage on an electrolytic capacitor can damage the       capacitor.              The original design likely upped the voltage to avoid the need/cost of NP       caps, which were relatively more expensive back in the day. Certainly more       costly than going up on voltage. In any case, shifting to NP caps can only       make it more stable and will        do no harm.               > The motor is frozen on the turntable. Removing the dried out grease and       lubricating should fix the problem. The rubber roller may need to be       replaced. I'm also looking for a replacement for the original Collaro RC456       changer as another possibility.        Modern turntables should provide less wear on the vinyl media.              You can "restore" an existing dried out roller by lightly machining a groove       into the existing hard roller - if it still has its integrity, that is - and       then use a neoprene or silicon O-ring of the appropriate size secured with       super-glue. It is only an        idler, after all. I find that synthetic greases are very good for lubrication       where no slop is required:              http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00257006               You will likely have to replace the cartridge and stylus - there are many       sources for such               Good luck with it!               Peter Wieck       Melrose Park, PA               --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05        * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)    |
[   << oldest   |   < older   |   list   |   newer >   |   newest >>   ]
(c) 1994, bbs@darkrealms.ca