XPost: comp.mobile.android, misc.phone.mobile.iphone   
   From: spam@nospam.com   
      
   Michael Trew wrote:   
      
   >> You can ask the exact same question of all five (assuming it's relevant,   
   >> such as "does the Tor Browser work on your platform?) and you'll get an   
   >> _adult_ response to three of the five.   
   >   
   > I guess the Windows 7 groups don't count anymore.  I'm still subscribed   
   > to alt.windows7.general   
      
   They're all Windows, but yes, you're correct there are more Windows ngs   
    alt.comp.os.windows-11   
    alt.comp.os.windows-10   
    alt.comp.os.windows-8   
    microsoft.public.windowsxp.general   
    alt.comp.os.windows-2000   
    alt.comp.os.windows-95   
    alt.comp.os.ms-dos>   
    etc.   
      
   The main archived Windows newsgroup isn't used by many people.   
       
      
   >> Wow. That's great. That's a garage to die for! I love it!   
   >> My brother has a professional lift which is one thing I _always_ wanted.   
   >>   
   >> Do you do any woodworking? That's a hobby that also takes up floor space.   
   >   
   > I'd love to have a lift, but the ceiling isn't high enough for the   
   > standard 2 or 4 post professional lifts.  I could get a scissor lift   
   > that takes the car up a couple of feet, and I might do that at some point.   
      
   There's also the bay concept (you dig a hole, put in steps, and voila!).   
      
   >> BTW, if you want advice in what tools to get for either the alignment or   
   >> for the mounting and balancing of tires, just ask & I'll be helpful.   
   >   
   > I was looking at that harbor freight set that you posted.  Looks like   
   > one would need the balancer, manual changer, and the bead breaker?   
      
   Yup. If the tires are small (less than about 17 inches perhaps) you can use   
   the bead breaker that comes with the manual tire changer. I'm assuming, of   
   course, that you have compressed air and all the necessary air fittings.   
      
   There are six beads involved, the first & last being the hardest.   
      
   First you remove the shrader valve (with the special driver).   
   a. Then you break the outside bead (using the bead breaker).   
   b. You break the inside bead next (again, using the bead breaker).   
   c. Then you remove the upper bead (using the tire changer).   
   d. Then you remove the lower bead (using the tire changer).   
      
   If desired, at this point you can replace the tire valve if you like.   
   Xeno and I like the mostly brass ones as opposed to the mostly rubber ones.   
   The mostly brass use a nut while the mostly rubber ones use a grommet.   
      
   At this point you _position_ the new tire (by the dots)...   
   e. Then you set the lower bead of the new tire (using the tire changer).   
   f. Then you set the upper bead of the new tire (using the tire changer).   
      
   Then you push the lower bead in at the rim's drop center (knees & hands).   
   And then you flush it full of air until the beads seat & pop a few times.   
      
   After that, you adjust the tire pressure (I stick with about 30 to 35 psi).   
   And then you do a static balance (using the static wheel balancer tool).   
      
   For small tires it's a breeze.   
   It only gets difficult when the tires reach around 16 and 17 inches.   
      
   I'm not sure exactly why that's the case, as the lower profile tires don't   
   cause as much a problem in my humble experience - but I think the light   
   truck tires have a stiffer sidewall (load range is higher).   
      
   If you don't get the lower bead in the drop center - you are dead.   
      
   >> Oh my! Don't do that. Buy inexpensive. Not cheap. What I mean by that is   
   >> you can _easily_ get _better_ pads for less money than worse pads if you   
   >> _know_ what you're looking for.   
   >   
   > By "cheap", I suppose I meant more inexpensive.  I usually buy whatever   
   > the lower cost set it at Auto Zone or a local auto parts shop.  I've   
   > bought flat out "cheap" pads on rockauto.com, and regretted it.   
      
   Ah. Pads. Pads. Pads.   
   What can I tell you.   
      
   The price is meaningless.   
   What matters are the specs.   
      
   The most important spec for a pad is cold/hot braking friction.   
   That is something _every_ pad has printed on the pad (for good reason).   
      
   After that, it's a crap shoot.   
   a. Dusting   
   b. Noise   
   c. Wear   
   d. Fitment   
      
   The way I buy pads is almost fool proof.   
   1. I know what the OEM pads are (e.g., Jurid/Textar, both FF).   
   2. I know what other people use on the BMW forums (e.g., Akebono).   
   3. I try those first and if they work, I stick to those pads.   
      
   Never would I get lower than the OEM friction ratings though.   
   So if the PBR is GG then it's OK but not if it's EE.   
      
   Fun fact: Plenty of pads are EE which is just about the same coefficient of   
   friction as steel on steel... which says a lot about how reliable brakes   
   are when you think about the braking being barely better than no pad   
   material left for _some_ pads sold on the market today.   
      
   >   
   >> Wow. I've _never_ sold a car in my life. I've always given them away.   
   >   
   > Sign me up!!  Lol.  Ohio state doesn't have car inspection, so I buy   
   > basically "give away" sub $700 cars, tinker with them, drive them until   
   > I tire of them, and usually sell them for what I have into them.  I've   
   > owned at least 30 some cars (I'm in my 20's, for reference).  I   
   > currently have 10 in my possession, unfortunately.   
      
   Wow. You're learning a lot. Good for you. You can amortize that learning   
   over the next five or six decades. Good for you.  To you a car is a   
   commodity (and it is). To most people it's not (but it still is).   
      
   Every marketing team tries to differentiate their car from the other car.   
   It's a game marketing plays (and most people fall for it).   
      
   >> What I _love_ about owning old cars is that you don't fret when it gets a   
   >> new scratch   
   >   
   > Exactly.  I have a couple of roads in town that are basically   
   > off-roading, where bamboo and trees hang down.  Dirt roads; boy are they   
   > fun.  One is rather steep.  I'll run up in an old pickup truck with a   
   > ladder rack on it (I always have to have one of those), and there will   
   > be a collection of bamboo in the bed of the truck that the ladder rack   
   > caught.   
      
   Yup. I had a chevy pickup with no first gear that we used to take "baja" in   
   the hills of New York State. Fun stuff when you don't care about what bangs   
   about in the truck (trees, logs, rocks, etc.). Lots of fun I had way back   
   when doing what you are doing now. Good for you!   
      
   >> Yup. Nothing a welding torch can't solve when the oxygen hits the hot iron!   
   >> I have 220V and gas welding equipment myself, but I rarely do it nowadays.   
   >   
   > He had a gas torch.  I need me one of those!   
      
   I have oxyacetylene and electric arc where they're completely different but   
   I never get a good-looking weld as _that_ is what takes the expert to do.   
      
   >> Great pads are about $12 or so each and rotors can be gotten for $15 to $25   
   >> each and a set of unloaded calipers can be obtained for around $30 each   
   >> (after core refund). Ask me how I know this.   
   >   
      
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    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)