XPost: comp.mobile.android, misc.phone.mobile.iphone   
   From: michael.trew@att.net   
      
   On 5/4/2022 4:30, Andy Burnelli wrote:   
   > Michael Trew wrote:   
   >>   
   >> Actually, that's a pretty regular thing for me. I've still got the '89   
   >> Olds up on jacks because the lower ball joints both need done.   
   >   
   > Luckily, ball joints don't need much by way of tools, other than a pickle   
   > fork and a good mallet (and maybe an old-time grease gun for older cars).   
      
   Ball joints just came in.  The project will commence when the weather is   
   better.   
      
   >> Those little buggers aren't cheap. I did the outer tie rod ends when I   
   >> bought it a couple of years ago (I don't keep many cars this long),   
   >> but the inner ends are also shot.   
   >   
   > Tie rod ends also aren't too bad - just be sure to mark things first.   
   > The idler arm and pitman arm may require a gear puller though.   
      
   Isn't there a special tool for inner tie rod ends?  The last time that I   
   had to have those done, I took it to a shop (that does work cheap for   
   me).  Of course, not as cheap as one could do at home.   
      
   >> One of the Geo Metros is also parked for _really_ bad ball joints and   
   >> tie rod ends. Of course, I'm a special case, since some of my cars   
   >> have north of 300K miles. There's a good chance that no one else has   
   >> replaced these parts before. When the steering gets sketchy, it's not   
   >> worth it to me to push my luck.   
   >   
   > The problem with doing that "stuff" is the alignment needs to be done.   
   >   
   > At your young age, all the home alignment tools are well worth buying.   
   > a. You need a wheel jig and camber gauge   
   > b. It's helpful to have wheel plates (greased linoleum works)   
   > c. It's nice to have toe plates too   
   >   
   > Always remember you adjust in _this_ order:   
   > Caster -> Camber -> Toe   
      
   I've done outer tie rod ends at home a few times, counted the turns, and   
   counted when turning new ones on.  Typically, I head to a shop afterward   
   that does an alignment for $50.  I'll have to look into that for my garage.   
      
   > I have a kit still, with a timing light, dwell meter, flat feeler gauges   
   > (for cams), wire gauges (for plugs), vacuum gauge, hose plugs, hose clamps,   
   > spark plug timing dial gauge, etc.   
   > Haven't opened it in years.   
   > When you have an older motorcycle (which I had at your age), you learn how   
   > to set timing by the dial gauge you screw into the spark plug hole   
   > (measuring mm BTDC) and the buzzer you set up across the points.   
      
   I don't do motorcycles (no interest in riding them), but I need most of   
   the tools that you have listed above.  Is your kit for sale? ;)   
      
   > The spec on that tire is usually a dozen parts, price always being last:   
   > 1. 235 mm wide   
   > 2. 75% as tall as it is wide (i.e., 176.25 mm tall)   
   > 3. Radial   
   > 4. 15 inch   
   > 5. Load index 105 (*wow* 2,039 pounds per tire!!!!!!!)   
   > 6. Speed S (112mph)   
   > 7. Traction: B, 8. Treadwear: 320, 9. Temperature: B   
   > 10. Tread pattern (e.g., M&S)   
   > 11. Age (within six years)   
   > 12. Price... (price is last but still important - see below)   
   >   
   > Personally I strive for an A (or AA) in traction, where the rest I just try   
   > to match or exceed OEM specs. A treadwear of 320 isn't all that good BTW.   
      
   I take it that you have to get a feel for looking at the specs before   
   digging into it.  Thanks for the list.   
      
   > Oh. You haul heavy metal? Well then, the load index does matter then, as   
   > two thousand pounds per tire is double what many tires normally handle.   
      
   Yes, that's usually an important factor for me.  I've hauled over a ton   
   of scrap in the bed of my truck before.  It's not something I do often   
   anymore, but when I have a truck, I really use a truck; so that has to   
   be an option.   
      
   > You're paying for stiff sidewalls, but one thing you need to keep in mind   
   > that if you're comparing a 235/75 with a 215/75, given they have the same   
   > aspect ratio, the 235 mm wide tire will sit 15 mm taller than will the 215   
   > mm wide tire, which will affect your ride, particularly on bumpy roads and   
   > with a load.   
      
   That's a consideration in a car, but for me, less of a concern in a   
   truck.  I expect a truck to ride more rough.  It's a backup vehicle for   
   me, or to haul stuff.   
      
   > Of the half dozen things all people should do at home, a major engine   
   > overhaul is one of those I haven't done yet.   
   >   
   > 1. Minor repairs (e.g., cooling system overhaul)   
   > 2. Alignment (caster, camber, toe)   
   > 3. Transmission (e.g., replace clutch)   
   > 4. Painting (e.g., change color)   
   > 5. Mounting & balancing wheels/tires   
   > 6. Major engine overhaul   
      
   Since I have the truck, rather than letting it rot, I think it's a   
   project for this summer.  I don't have much to loose; the old beater is   
   for scrap if I don't fix it.  I have a Felpro head gasket and new head   
   bolts that I bought a year ago.  A straight 6 is a pretty simple engine.   
     I just need to rope my friend into doing it (and debate if I want to   
   tow it several blocks up hill to the new garage first).   
      
   --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05   
    * Origin: you cannot sedate... all the things you hate (1:229/2)