XPost: comp.mobile.android, misc.phone.mobile.iphone   
   From: spam@nospam.com   
      
   Michael Trew wrote:   
      
   > Ball joints just came in.  The project will commence when the weather is   
   > better.   
      
   Good luck. As I recall, removal is the hard part. That's why the pickle   
   fork is used. You put it horizontally to the connection and bang away until   
   it just pops free. In _my_ experience, it pops after just a few bangs.   
      
   Much like a U-Joint pops out of a driveshaft after only a few hits.   
      
   > Isn't there a special tool for inner tie rod ends?  The last time that I   
   > had to have those done, I took it to a shop (that does work cheap for   
   > me).  Of course, not as cheap as one could do at home.   
      
   As I recall the _only_ difference in the tool is the pickle fork is   
   smaller. But I haven't done it in years. Luckily, as with ball joints, the   
   removal is the hard part where you're at least not worried about damaging   
   them.   
      
   When putting them back together, you just screw them in but there the issue   
   is to match the steering wheel. You spend more time on the steering wheel   
   than anything else when dealing with tie rod ends.   
      
   You want to notice the center position of the steering wheel first.   
   Then you want to lock it into place (they sell a tool for that).   
      
   When you put things back, you want the steering wheel to be in the same   
   position when driving straight. Otherwise you'll be driven nuts.   
      
   >> Always remember you adjust in _this_ order:   
   >> Caster -> Camber -> Toe   
   >   
   > I've done outer tie rod ends at home a few times, counted the turns, and   
   > counted when turning new ones on.  Typically, I head to a shop afterward   
   > that does an alignment for $50.  I'll have to look into that for my garage.   
      
   The only thing tie rods affect, as I recall, is toe, which is easy to do at   
   home. It's camber and caster that are harder to do at home without special   
   tools. But toe can be done easily at home to the desired specifications.   
      
   At your age, and with the number of cars you buy, you would benefit greatly   
   from doing your own caster, camber and toe. If a car has been in an   
   accident, then you need the four wheel alignment but if all you're doing is   
   setting it up, then you do it in this order. Caster -> Camber -> Toe.   
      
   Caster is a function of camber though, so all you need to measure is   
   camber. Toe is simply a linear measurement so it's the easiest to measure.   
      
   >> I have a kit still, with a timing light, dwell meter, flat feeler gauges   
   >> (for cams), wire gauges (for plugs), vacuum gauge, hose plugs, hose clamps,   
   >> spark plug timing dial gauge, etc.   
   >> Haven't opened it in years.   
   >> When you have an older motorcycle (which I had at your age), you learn how   
   >> to set timing by the dial gauge you screw into the spark plug hole   
   >> (measuring mm BTDC) and the buzzer you set up across the points.   
   >   
   > I don't do motorcycles (no interest in riding them), but I need most of   
   > the tools that you have listed above.  Is your kit for sale? ;)   
      
   I've never sold anything in my life, least of all my tools.   
   They're for my kids (or grandkids) to use if they ever need them.   
   They'll probably be sold then though. :)   
      
   >> Personally I strive for an A (or AA) in traction, where the rest I just try   
   >> to match or exceed OEM specs. A treadwear of 320 isn't all that good BTW.   
   >   
   > I take it that you have to get a feel for looking at the specs before   
   > digging into it.  Thanks for the list.   
      
   Basically a tire is a commodity, despite marketing wanting you to think   
   it's not. Also you can't get a bad (aka unsafe) tire in the USA. Now I know   
   there are plenty of people who can bring up "Firestone" stuff, but I'm   
   talking in general.   
      
   What you do is start with the OEM spec and then you buy a tire that meets   
   or exceeds those OEM specs. The ones that matter, of course, are fitment,   
   and then load range and then speed rating. The rest are less important.   
      
   My main point is price is meaningless.   
   If anyone ever tells you "you get what you pay for", then just walk away   
   and don't tell that person that they're an idiot because they're already   
   too stupid to get it.   
      
   Most people do NOT know how to buy stuff.   
   Yet everyone wants a "good/better/best" number line.   
      
   Fun fact: Marketing people have figured that out already.   
      
   So they always give you a good/better/best L/XL/GXL number line of   
   bullshit. Usually the L has basic markings, the XL slightly better, but the   
   GXL... oh that GXL... it has GOLD plated markings. Surely it's better.   
      
   The bullshit good/better/best number line for batteries and tires most   
   often handed to people is the treadwear warranty - which is purely   
   meaningless bullshit for a huge number of reasons I won't delve into.   
      
   Anyone who buys anything by warranty is a fool.   
   Let's leave it at that.   
      
   The point is you buy by the specs.   
   The _last_ spec you look at, is the price.   
      
   >> Oh. You haul heavy metal? Well then, the load index does matter then, as   
   >> two thousand pounds per tire is double what many tires normally handle.   
   >   
   > Yes, that's usually an important factor for me.  I've hauled over a ton   
   > of scrap in the bed of my truck before.  It's not something I do often   
   > anymore, but when I have a truck, I really use a truck; so that has to   
   > be an option.   
      
   Well, the nice thing about a well-built tire is that it wears more safely   
   over time, in that the sidewalls are really sturdy and can handle abuse.   
      
   As I said, you never buy a tire with a lower load index than the OEM tire.   
      
   >> You're paying for stiff sidewalls, but one thing you need to keep in mind   
   >> that if you're comparing a 235/75 with a 215/75, given they have the same   
   >> aspect ratio, the 235 mm wide tire will sit 15 mm taller than will the 215   
   >> mm wide tire, which will affect your ride, particularly on bumpy roads and   
   >> with a load.   
   >   
   > That's a consideration in a car, but for me, less of a concern in a   
   > truck.  I expect a truck to ride more rough.  It's a backup vehicle for   
   > me, or to haul stuff.   
      
   I understand. A lot of people think you can just change the aspect ratio,   
   and you can, but it affects other things as it's always a tradeoff.   
      
   Even just changing the width of the tread affects other handling factors.   
      
   >> Of the half dozen things all people should do at home, a major engine   
   >> overhaul is one of those I haven't done yet.   
   >>   
   >> 1. Minor repairs (e.g., cooling system overhaul)   
   >> 2. Alignment (caster, camber, toe)   
   >> 3. Transmission (e.g., replace clutch)   
   >> 4. Painting (e.g., change color)   
   >> 5. Mounting & balancing wheels/tires   
   >> 6. Major engine overhaul   
   >   
   > Since I have the truck, rather than letting it rot, I think it's a   
   > project for this summer.  I don't have much to loose; the old beater is   
      
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